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Sharmila Chand

Amanbagh in Rajasthan is where the royalty of yore went for rest and rejuvenation... and it's easy to see why.

Made in Rajasthan: Ajabgarh fort

Amanbagh is where Maharaja Jai Singh of Alwar camped in the 19th century during his hunting expeditions in the dense jungles of Sariska.

The date palms around the camp serve as a reminder of Emperor Akbar's army, which paused here to relax and rejuvenate during long marches. The stone wall surrounding Amanbagh remains a silent witness to the golden era of maharajas and emperors.

The place is fondly called Jhil-Mil (sparkling waters) by the locals due to the sight of the dancing rays of sunlight on the adjacent nalah (river), which made it an ideal retreat for royalty and is today a `home', not hotel, for the guests of Amanbagh. A home where you stay and meet the housedogs Titli (meaning `butterfly'), the playful, black Bhutia and Kut-Kut. A home where the pet camels and horses — Raj, Shah, Babu and Hira — are on hand to transport you to various sightseeing spots.

The place is also full of monkeys — Langoor and Macaque — Sambhar deer, Blue deer and a variety of birds.

It is amazing that for such an untouched part of Rajasthan there is so much to do and discover here. From simply walking or driving through the neighbouring villages in Amanbagh's custom-made open jeeps to exploring Bhangarh — a national heritage site just down the road, enjoying an Indian stretch massage in your Amanbagh suite or the spa rooms, and keeping a dinner date at the ruins of a private haveli.

Diya-lit dinner at a chhatri

Ever dreamt of lying in a Shikara, watching birds through a telescope while munching on breakfast and sipping fresh juice served right there? Mansarovar lake with hundreds of exotic birds offers the perfect setting for this. You could equally live out your fantasy of dining on a cliff under a canopy of twinkling stars. Now top this with exquisite sparkling wine, amazing food, a serenading flautist, diyas and marigold all around you. Truly romantic! Love is definitely in the air at Amanbagh, be it the exclusive dinner themes at the various haveli ruins, the sunset or the full-moon drinks on the lake wall or relaxed, Indian-style lunches in one of the Chhatris on the lake.

Surrounding places of interest

The pool pavilion at Amanbagh.

Bhangarh: An amazing setting for photography, meditation and yoga. This medieval site of archaeological importance is 15 km from Amanbagh.

Ajabgarh: The main attractions here are the fort and a temple dedicated to Shri Raghunathji, built in 1635 AD, with its 24-pillared open courtyard and marble façade.

Somsagar Lake: It takes about 30 minutes to trek to the lake. A stone inscription in the vicinity suggests that the lake was built in 1598 at the time of Emperor Akbar's visit to Ajabgarh. It was meant to serve as a watering hole for wildlife and birds.

Narayani Mata: Dating back to 1058 AD, Narayani Mata is as sacred to the Rajasthani as the Pushkar or Ramdeora. It is located 14 km from Amanbagh, on the edge of Sariska National Park. Transfers are organised by jeep or car.

Neelkanth town: Neelkanth, meaning the blue-throated incarnation of Lord Shiva, is located inside Sariska National Park, 45 minutes from Amanbagh. It is situated on a plateau high in the hills and the view as one climbs up the final stretch of road is spectacular.

Mansarovar lake: At the foot of the dirt road leading up to Neelkanth, this spot becomes a birdwatcher's paradise from October to February.

Abhaneri: About 65 km from Amanbagh is an awesome baori (step-well). Besides a collection of exquisitely carved statues, there is a crumbling temple adjoining the baori.

Sariska Nature and Game Sanctuary: Spread over 765 sq km, this wildlife sanctuary is 35 minutes from Amanbagh.

The Maharaja's Throne: This is a throne carved out of a rockface in one of the lush valleys just behind Amanbagh. According to the villagers, this throne was used by Maharaja Jai Singh of Alwar on his tiger-hunting expeditions in the area.

Pictures by the author

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