The Hindu Business Line : Port of recall

The sun glinted on the blue, palm-fringed waters at the confluence of the Periyar river and the Arabian Sea at Kodungallur, once known as Cranganore, in Kerala. Rowboats and leisure boats stood idly, waiting for passengers, while children played on the broad paved surfaces. We were at Azhikode jetty, which might have been where St Thomas landed in 52 A.D.

The port finds mention in early Tamil literature as Muchiri; the Romans and the Greeks knew it as Muziris. The name might have been from the goddess Masuri Devatha, who was propitiated in Kerala to prevent smallpox; even now the word for smallpox is masuri. Historian Pliny the Elder (A.D. 23-79) describes boats bringing in gold and taking back “black gold”, as pepper was known; pepper, useful for preserving food, was also known as yavana priya or belo ved of the Greeks. The port had a slew of names; Mayurikkodi, Muchir, Mahodevapattanam and so on. It was also strategic enough to be fought over by the Portuguese, the Dutch and the English. However, the actual location is still speculative. It might have been on the northern or the southern bank.

The place’s importance waned in the 14th century, when in 1341 a devastating flood was supposed to have silted up the river mouth and converted the landlocked Cochin harbour into one of the finest and safest harbours in India. The port of Cranganore had served its purpose and now it exists, like Hampi and Srirangappattana, only in the evocation of what one has read.

Religious centre

Surprisingly, from a bustling sea or river port which brought in commerce and trade from far-flung lands, today the place has become a major religious centre that continues to reflect the harmony that prevailed wherein all religions that entered were given safe passage and practice by the tolerant rulers of the erstwhile Muziris.

It is difficult now to envisage what must have been. At the point where St Thomas might have landed at Azhikode jetty is a shrine to commemorate his arrival. It is impressive, set in a semicircle with the small church in the centre, flanked by the statues of saints. Inside was a large spacious shrine with light streaming in from the windows. People were seated in orderly quiet fashion although some of the children were running around. After a while the congregation proceeded in the same orderly fashion into an inner room to view the bone believed to have belonged to the saint’s right arm. It was enshrined in a glass case and people caressed the glass and raised their hands to their lips.

In the town is an ancient mosque (7th century) which had all the features of indigenous architecture but the renovation has removed many of those unique characteristics. It is supposed to be the first mosque built in India under the orders of Cheraman Perumal, the king who embraced Islam. Originally built in the form of a traditional house, it retains its frontage, but the minarets at the back are a new feature. Inside, a huge bronze lamp still continues to burn, and some traditions are still maintained, such as that of devotees bringing oil for the lamp. The Hindu custom of Vidyarambham or initiation of learning for small children is also done here by many non-Muslim devotees.

Bharani festival

Kodungallur is associated with the worship of the Bhagavathy, whose annual Bharani festival is celebrated in March-April. It is a sprawling complex housing many shrines. The main one is to Bhadrakali, who is in the form that slew the demon Daaruka. It is a majestic 6-ft high image, carved out of the jackfruit wood.

It has connections with Kannaki of the Tamil classic Silappadhikaram fame whose idol it was supposed to have been. On the eastern side is a secret chamber, which is supposed to have been the original site of the idol. The Bharani fe stival is marked by some unusual customs such as the singing of lewd songs and a process by which the temple is desecrated by people dressed in red and charging around, brandishing swords and striking temple rafters with sticks. After this the temple is closed for seven days for ritual purification and cleansing.

The other pilgrimage followed by devotees is the worship at four major shrines in one day — the Triprayar temple to Rama, Lakshmana at Muzhikulam, Shatrugna at Payamel and Bharata at Irinjalakuda.

The Triprayar temple at dawn is a beautiful, peaceful site, located as it is on the banks of a river. As we entered the moorthy (idol) was being taken around on an elephant, accompanied by traditional musicians. A fitting beginning to a beautiful day. The idol is supposed to be one of four — of Rama and his brothers — which were washed ashore and installed at different locations. An unusual offering is that of explosives to commemorate the sign given to Rama that Sita had been found. Near the temple is a simple, clean restaurant which serves the best idlis I have tasted. Soft as flowers.

The Koodalmanikyam temple in Irinjalakuda, dedicated to Bharata, has an exquisite koothambalam with wood carvings, and a round sanctum sanctorum. The offerings here are also unusual in that it takes garlands of 101 lotuses and boile d and salted brinjals. The story behind this relates to a devotee who was advised to offer 101 brinjals to cure his stomach ailment.

The other two are smaller temples in the Kerala tradition, simple wood and tile constructions, clean, with the ambulatory path paved with stones.

It is a sign of the religious harmony that exists here that all three major religions are represented, with each drawing its devotees and each performing its important celebrations with peace and freedom.

Kodungallur today retains its famed hospitality that drew travellers from foreign climes in times of yore. The river is placid and calm— the spirit of peace still hovers over it.

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