The Hindu Business Line : Trail of love

For years now conservationists have been suggesting the assimilation of heritage sites around the Taj Mahal under one umbrella to ensure their preservation and add variety for tourists visiting this monument to love.

Now, for the first time, a Mughal Heritage Trail is being developed in the area thanks to a poverty alleviation programme under way in the vicinity of the monument. Away from the din and merriment surrounding the news that the Taj has been selected as one of the new Seven Wonders of the World, a group of people is working to improve the livelihoods of low-income communities in the area by developing the heritage trail.

The Crosscutting Agra Programme (CAP) is a USAID-supported initiative in partnership with the Agra Municipal Corporation and the Archaeological Survey of India.

The programme engages local women in developing tourism products and other income-generating activities such as souvenir making, and running tea and snack stalls for tourists. It is also training local youth to work as guides and facilitators for the heritage trail.

Each year Agra receives over three million tourists. Of these 40 per cent are foreigners, many of whom look for environmentally and socially responsible ways to connect with a place and its people. They are the ones who are willing to experience, explore and learn more about the Taj Mahal. The Mughal heritage trail is a boon for alternative tourism and has already found a long list of admirers.

Meandering through history

The trail takes a meandering 4-km route covering lesser known monuments like the Rambagh, Chini Ka Rauza, Itmad-Ud-Daula and Mehtab Bagh. Another smaller walk leads to Humayun’s mosque —where many of his relatives are buried — and the Jantar Mantar carved out of a single stone. Only a small part of Jantar Mantar, however, remains intact today and is known as Gyaraha Sidi (eleven steps).

“This is a unique concept which will increase visitor exposure to the many beautiful monuments in Agra that are often obscured by the predominance of the Taj,” says Dr Renu Khosla, Director of the Centre for Urban and Regional Excellence (CURE) and leader of the team developing the heritage trail to integrate the monuments and gardens built around the Taj.

All the six monuments currently covered by the trail are in the Kachhpura settlement of Agra. Kachhpura, located on the opposite bank of the Yamuna river, offers classic views of the Taj and has a fascinating history of its own. In Mughal times, Kachhpura was the property of Raja Maan Singh (maternal uncle of Emperor Shahjahan), who also owned the land on which the Taj stands. Shahjahan compensated Raja Maan Singh with four palaces to acquire the site for the Taj. It is believed that many of the artisans and labourers who worked on the Taj belonged to Kachhpura.

The area boasted several beautiful gardens long before the Taj was built. Rambagh, designed in the classical Charbagh (four quartered garden) style, was built by Babar in 1526. This was followed by the construction of a series of gardens and garden houses on both sides of the river. Although gardens like Achanak and Zohra Bagh do not exist any more, remnants of the wells that formed part of the aqueduct system are still visible along the riverbank.

Garden of the moon

Mehtab Bagh on the riverbank, however, is an important landmark. It too had disappeared once but was rediscovered in 1990. In fact, in 1978, flash floods in the Kachhpura area had exposed an ancient wall dating to the Mughal era. When excavated further in 1990 it revealed Mehtab Bagh (Garden of the Moon). It was built to view the Taj on moonlit nights, when its beauty was reflected in the river.

The discovery of Mehtab Bagh also proves what many historians have been suggesting — that Yamuna was considered the river of paradise and incorporated into the Taj Mahal’s overall design.

One of the important monuments on the heritage trail is the Itmad Ud Daula — the stunning marble mausoleum built by Emperor Jehangir’s wife, Nur Jahan, in 1622-1625 for her father Mir Ghiyas Beg, who was ‘Itmad-ud-Daulah’ or Lord Treasurer of the empire under Jehangir. The mausoleum and its vibrant paintings and mosaics remain in meticulous condition.

(Mukesh Khosla)

Historic surroundings: Chini Ka Rauza

A few metres north is the Chini Ka Rauza (ceramic mausoleum) of Mulla Shukrullah Shirazi, the Wazir (Prime Minister) of Shahjahan. Some of the enamelled tiles on its exterior are still intact.

As interest in the trail expands, other low-income settlements situated along the way such as Marwar Basti, Katra Wazir Khan, Yamuna Bridge Colony and Nangla Devjeet are being made a part of the project.

“We have assembled monument information, prepared area trail maps, and brochures, scrolls, souvenirs and trained tour animators from local communities. Many of them have been trained to communicate in English and other foreign languages and are being linked to local tour operators to advocate the trail,” says Renu .

There are plans to set up additional attractions along the trail such as stalls with artisans at work. The tour animators will facilitate interaction between visitors and the artisans. The craft stalls will also provide an interesting shopping experience.

Other plans include the Kachhpura Guest Room Service for overnight visitors, with accommodation in the second storey of some of the traditional houses in the area that afford an unobstructed view of the Taj. The host families will be trained for breakfast service and evening meals comprising local cuisine. Training is being provided with the support of hotel industry.

The Stopovers

Itmad Ud Daula

The first tomb in India made of pure marble, it was built before the Taj Mahal.

Chini Ka Rauza

This mausoleum is decorated with glazed tiles.

Rambagh

This garden offers a stunning view of the Taj.

Mehtab Bagh

Here you can view the Taj beautifully reflected in the Yamuna on a moonlit night.

Gyaraha Sidi (eleven steps)

Emperor Humayun’s astronomical observatory.

Humayun’s Mosque

Emperor Babar was first buried here.