The Hindu Business Line : Towering Darmstadt

Ifra, the world’s leading organisation for newspaper and media publishing, is headquartered in Darmstadt, Germany. I was on my way to attend IfraExpo 2007, the annual event of the newspaper industry in Vienna, and planned a halt in Darmstadt. Immediately after arriving in Frankfurt, one headed towards Darmstadt, about 40 km away.

Darmstadt has only a small variety of sights. Most of them lay within walking distance from the hotel which exuded an old-world charm. A visit to the Artists’ Colony on Mathildenhohe was recommended and one set off for it.

Artistic colony

In 1899, Grand Duke Ernst Ludwig of Hesse founded the Artists’ Colony with seven artists, architects, painters and sculptors. Their first task was to design and build their own living and working quarters and present them to the public.

The first Mathildenhohe exhibition took place in 1901 and brought Darmstadt to the public eye. Josef Maria Olbrich designed the Ernst-Ludwig-Haus, named after the royal head of State, as an atelier and exhibition building, together with a number of surrounding villas.

These buildings are even today referred to as the ‘Darmstadt style’ of architecture. In 1908, Olbrich’s last works, the exhibition halls and the Wedding Tower were dedicated during the Hessian State Exhibition for Pure and Applied Art.

One of the landmarks on the Mathildenhohe is the Hochzeitsturm, now an established symbol of Darmstadt. The tower was built in memory of the marriage of Grand Duke Ludwig to Princess Eleonore zu Solms-Hohensolms-Lich in February 1905. It was Olbrich who designed the 48-metre tower that was completed in 1908.

The brick-tower symmetrical building has an entrance portal; its upright main tower body has eccentric window bands extending around the corners and a unique five-spire top that resembles the outstretched fingers of a hand. The tower interior has seven storeys, including an entrance hall and rooms for the Grand Duke and Grand Duchess decorated with frescoes. The uppermost storey forms the viewing platform.

Close by is a Russian chapel, a picturesque building decorated with mosaic, tiles and gold-plated cupolas. There is an ornamental pool in front of the chapel that was designed by Russian architect Louis Benois.

Walking up the Wilhelminenstrasse, starting from the Luisenplatz, the dome of the St. Ludwig’s Church became visible. The Church was built during 1822-27 as the first Catholic church since the introduction of the Reformation in Hesse. Architect and master construction engineer Georg Moller built the church in classical style, imitating the famous Pantheon in Rome.

Twenty-eight Corinthian columns in the church’s interior, each 15 metres high, carry a 33-metre wide dome with a single window at the highest point; it is the only window in the church. The Alice Monument stands in front of the portico, the obelisk dedicated to Queen Victoria’s daughter, Grand Duchess Alice.

Darmstadt’s Palace is situated in the city centre. In earlier times, the Palace moat was used as defence against intruders. Important structural changes were made in the 18th century, under Ludwig.

Architect Remy de la Fosse planned a Baroque Palace. However, only wings of the projected structure, pointing towards Market Square, were completed. The Palace Museum, set up in 1924, is located in the older part of the Palace. The Hessian State and University occupy the Baroque wings. One then moved towards Market Square and Old City Hall. The Square was built in the 14th century as a trading centre. The market fountain dates to 1546; alterations were made in 1780.

In November 1996, the Marketplatz was reopened after renovation. Indian granite paving stones give the Square an attractive appearance. Market days are on Wednesdays and Saturdays. To the south side of market Square is Old City Hall. It was built in 1598. You can enjoy locally brewed beer at the Ratskeller here.

Well maintained

The last stop for the day was at the House of History and State Archives. The Altes Theater, or Old Theatre, has housed the Hessian State Archives, the City Archives and the Hessian Historical Association since 1994. Exhibitions, concerts and lectures are held in the building.

At the Hessian State Archives, you can find documents relating to the area of the former Grand Duchy and Republic of Hesse, as well as books, maps, pictures and coins.

This is despite wartime losses — the building was damaged in the Second World War. The Archives include a library as well.What strikes the visitor, especially from this part of the world, is the way heritage buildings are cared for in Darmstadt. And that, I am sure, is the case elsewhere in Germany too.

Many old buildings, I noticed, are not only well maintained but also mostly inhabited, by shops and stores on the ground floor, to ensure that the buildings do not turn decrepit.