The Hindu Business Line : A new-avatar menu

To change and to change for the better are two different things, says a German proverb. The thought crossed my mind as we sampled Chef de Cuisine Manu Chandra’s just launched new dinner menu at a table for three at the upper-crust Mediterranean-imbued Olive Beach restaurant in Bangalore. Outdoors, lights flickered over a bamboo clump as our glasses of superb Sauvignon Blanc clinked, lulled by a timeless feel, perfect within an urban hub.

But questions followed more quickly than courses. Can such a recognised brand, feted by the Conde Naste Traveller, BBC and The New York Times since its November 2005 southern launch, better its art of fine dining? Will its clientele morph in keeping with Bangalore’s evolving palate?

On initial visits, Olive Beach won us over with its with classy ambience, impeccable service and Mediterranean fusion menu, especially signature dishes like the Mezzanine of nine gourmet dips or the dramatic chicken espetada on a stand. Today, hungry for change, it ups the ante in a dramatic, almost futuristic, leap.

Its new-avatar menu, with slip-in sheets, has watercolour embellishments by French pop artist Xavier Hiquet, whose work Olive Beach shared with diners in November 2007. Its pages translate into food as high art. Take the Essence of Tomato and Watermelon. A moulded tian of peppers, tomato, cucumber, and avocado fragrant with coriander leaves is placed before us in large-rimmed, oval-scooped bowls. As watermelon juice is poured on from a long-stemmed bottle, we find ourselves supping on summer distilled.

Three starters enhance the inspired mood. The classic French Tomato Tart Tatin, a medley of delicately herbed goat’s cheese, creamy ricotta, and fragrant tomatoes on a light puff pastry shell was seductive, drizzled with a pistou of garlic, olive oil and fresh basil. The raw Tuna Crudo was superlative: presented as a thin-sliced tender carpaccio balanced with a salsa of tomato/ capers/ olives, then reinvented with pine-nut and herb-rich dolma rice, transformed a third time with a tartar sauce with unusual zing. The three fragrant mounds, on a stretched, pristine platter, were visually enticing. Just as brilliant was the Pan-seared Foie Gras, distinctly from Rougie in France, with subtle notes of port, rich fig and prune, even arugula leaves.

Of the seafood courses, the Red Snapper en Cocotte in dainty ramekins was subtle, the fish cooked in lemon/ olive oil, balanced with a tomato-olive salad. The Atlantic Scallop was flavour-rich, intelligently paired with corn, red peppers and – a surprise here – pepper spatzle! Truly global fusion! Even more irresistible was the Crispened Manali Trout, seared on one side, balanced with a Provencale spring style barrigoule of artichokes and fava beans, aromatic with fresh thyme, lemon and garlic.

A nuanced, palate-tingling Lemon Sorbet with Champagne prepared us for the next treat: 8-Hour Lamb with 10-minute Polenta. The slow-braised shoulder of kid was impeccable, melting to the tongue and touch. It was perfectly offset by the mustard-rich, rosemary-scented, goat’s milk-enhanced polenta. Even the Cheese Platter was surprise-edged. Between bites of olives, a ripe Brie and Edam, we discovered a delight – honeyed pistas with a whiff of cognac!

Could the desserts be as superlative? Incredibly, they were. The Valronha Chocolate Terrine was a sensory delight, berries sandwiched between chocolate mille feuille, topped with a dark chocolate plume on a painted platter. But the Port Poached Pear proved even superior. Its fruity enticement was enhanced by the warm Almond Financier, a springy, nutty cake with delicious honey mascarpone cream.

To round off the experience, Chocotini cocktails arrive. A dream come true for a chocoholic like me, the crème de cacao, Kahlua and vodka took a while to gain expression between smooth sips. Perfect as a foil to engaging the chef in a chat about cabbages and cocktails, supply chains and clientele!

As expats, captains of industry and globetrotters flock to Olive Beach for its culinary adventures and perfectly-sourced ingredients including organic Indian duck, our taste buds clamour for a say. They agree that this menu on the move is distinctly a change for the better. We raised a cheer to that, with the chef’s homemade Limoncello liqueur, its high notes recognisably those of Bengal’s Gandharaj lemon. How’s that for a fusion grand finale?

(Olive Beach, 16, Wood Street, Ashok Nagar, Bangalore 560025. Phone: 41128400/ 99455-65483)

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