The Hindu Business Line : Rustic repast from Italy

The Deccan Plaza hotel in Chennai has resolved to bring exotic world cuisine within the reach of vegetarians in the city. After an oriental food fest that it organised in the recent past, the hotel has followed up with the launch of an Italian wine and dine restaurant called Osteria.

Those familiar with Italian dining would know that the format of the restaurant dictates the kind of food served. At a Ristorante, which is always upscale, the dining experience is refined and formal with an extensive wine list and haute cuisine. A Trattoria is less formal and is usually a family-run dining establishment. And an Osteria is the least formal of the three, sporting a rustic ambience and serving country Italian food — dishes which are simple and made with few ingredients.

So, to bring alive the Osteria experience at Deccan Plaza, executive chef M.K. Raheem, who has over 12 years’ experience working in Italian restaurants in West Asia, ensures that all breads and pastas, nearly 16 varieties of which are served here, are home-made and freshly baked every morning. Having imported the pasta-making machines from Italy, he says this arrangement “not only helps ensure high quality but also maintain cost.”

With over 80 dishes on offer and tongue-twisting names to navigate through, we decided to go with the Chef’s recommendations. The bread was extremely soft and fresh and was served with garlic butter and a generous seasoning of oregano. Restaurant Manager Alex Stephen, who has also worked in West Asia, pours some extra-virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The result is exotic… taste that is both pungent and sweet.

For starters, the chef suggests Bruschetta — crispy, traditional Italian bread with basil, finely-chopped onions, tomatoes, roasted capsicum, herbs and olive oil; and Insalata Verde — a delicious salad with a combination of vertically sliced cucumber, tomato, capsicum, crunchy green apple and lettuce; the balsamic dressing used is a traditional flavoured vinegar commonly used in Italian cuisine. “A fair amount of ingredients such as the dressings, herbs, cheese and even vegetables (such as asparagus, artichoke) are imported,” says Chef Raheem.

A noteworthy aspect in Italian cuisine is its meal structure — Antipasto (starters) is followed by the primo or the first course consisting of pasta or risotto, which is packed with carbohydrates. We were served Spaghetti a gli Spinaci — a delectable dish featuring spaghetti pasta (neither too hard nor overcooked), with black olives and semi-dried tomato lending a tangy flavour, and combined with spinach, white wine, extra virgin olive oil and parmesan cheese grated in front of you to suit your requirement. This was the best of all the dishes we sampled, definitely a must-have.

The Lasagne alle Verdure — layers of pasta sheets, fresh vegetables and a mix of tomato and the chef’s signature bechemelle sauce, topped with mozzarella cheese — was delicious too.

As pasta is the popular base ingredient in Italian cuisine, it is the sauces and herbs with exotic dressings that take centre-stage when differentiating one dish from another. Tradition also demands the meal be accompanied by wine, which is currently thinly-stocked at Osteria. “We plan to get an amazing stock of Italian, South African, French and Australian wines soon,” promises Stephen.

Traditionally this cuisine also features lamb and seafood, mainly prawns, squids, mussels and fish. “In Dubai, the Italian speciality restaurants have 79 non-vegetarian dishes on their menu and only one vegetarian dish. Here, it is completely different,” Chef Raheem laughs. “Creating a completely vegetarian menu, offering variety and preserving the authenticity was a challenge”, and one that he has clearly lived up to.

The Risotto a gli Asparagi, made with the traditionally sticky arborio rice, was rich and creamy. Seasoned with asparagus, sun-dried tomatoes, green peas, herbs and mascarpone cheese, it was very filling and a treat for bland-food lovers. And the fitting finish to the meal was the egg-less Tiramisu accompanied by amazing chocolate-coffee biscotti. The flavour of the bitter coffee layered with gorgeous mascarpone cream keeps you intoxicated for several hours after the meal. To savour the taste, one even refused the mint chocolates offered.

With mostly wooden furniture used, corners dedicated to curios from Italy, a wine bar and a wall beautifully painted in shades of brown and ochre to resemble an Italian lane, the restaurant’s ambience evokes an old-world charm. There is also a kiln where thin-crust pizzas are freshly made and served hot with melting cheese. Served in white crockery, the presentation was very simple, in keeping with the Osteria style and, “the food is both humble and humbling”, as described by the Chef.

The only aberration in the menu was a section called “Around the World” featuring offerings such as nachos, hummus and crispies among other non-Italian dishes. Why this in a speciality Italian restaurant which vouches for its authenticity, one asked. “Some vegetarian guests request for these too,” says Chef Raheem. “We add garlic and onion based on their requirement, check for spice levels, etc.” A bit of compromise can be pardoned, he says. After all, in the food business, “the guest is always right!”

A meal for two costs approximately Rs 650.

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