The Hindu Business Line : Alsace beautiful!

Strasbourg, the capital of the Alsace region in France, is a beautiful montage of French and German cultures. There’s a tad bit of Roman influence too, considering their presence was pretty significant till the fall of the empire. Just about at the city centre, the river Ill branches into two, almost like a moat surrounding the altstadt (German for old city).

I am here on a bright summer’s morning, as the farmers’ markets are under way beneath colourful canopies selling a variety of mushrooms, greens, wines, breads, goat’s cheeses, and so on.

The towering spire of the Cathedral Notre Dame, once the tallest building in the world, is visible from just about everywhere. An amazing piece of Gothic architecture intricately embellished, it fits perfectly Victor Hugo’s observation — a skilful combination of monumental size and delicateness. The light playing on its pink sandstone exterior brings into dramatic relief the innumerable sculptures; while inside, the stupendous stained glass windows crafted during the 12th-14th centuries catch the eye. It’s to see the astronomical clock in action that I am in the alcove well before half past noon. Out on the paved courtyard musicians serenade. Lured by the aroma of freshly-brewed coffee, I sit by a sidewalk café surrounded by ancient half timber structures, beautifully preserved. There’s the Maison Kammerzell, perhaps the most beautiful with its elaborately carved wooden façade, once the mansion of a wealthy trader.

Though there are museums aplenty, I set off to the Palais Rohan that houses three. I’ve just enough time for the Musee des Beaux-Arts — a collection of European fine art. It’s late afternoon and just the right time to meander along the waterways, by bridges punctuated with watchtowers to the top of Vauban Dam, part of the city’s fortifications, along quays, through quaint alleyways taking a ride to get a boatman’s view, eventually to stand at Pont St. Martin watching the picture-postcard surroundings suffused in the warm glow of the setting sun. But there’s still something left — a ride on a Strasbourg tram.

They fascinate me in their sleek, modern avatars as they silently whiz through the streets. So sitting by the large windows I take in the cityscape that turns magical at night.

A Maedieval Castle

I am on the A35 driving along the vast Alsace plains, crossing the Ehn and Andlau rivers to Selestat and further on along the N59, through the lush vineyards to the foothills of the Vosges. Then, up a winding road to Koenigsbourg that sits atop a ridge. Home to the Hapsburgs and German Emperor Wilhelm II, this 12th century castle built on the remains of ancient Roman structures was torched time and again, but like the proverbial phoenix rose from its ashes, to command a wide sweep of the countryside all around; its presence is indomitable.

Standing on its colossal, rugged ramparts I take in the spectacular Alsatian landscape, the farms and forests, towns and villages where in the midst of red-topped roofs rises the tall church steeple, the pieces fitting together as in some giant jigsaw. It’s breathtaking.

The 12th century castle Koenigsbourg

Inside, a maze of passageways bring to life a picture of life as it was lived in this fortress, isolated yet self-sufficient once the draw bridges were retracted. There’s the armoury, the stables, the kitchens, the living quarters with their ornamental ceramic stoves and bric-a-brac in plenty. And there are the herb gardens, just as they were centuries ago.

Enchanting Colmar

The Cathedral Notre Dame at Strasbourg

In Colmar, I head to the tourist office. Armed with their ‘discovery trail’ map I start from the Place D’ Unterlinden marvelling at the architectural magnificence that surrounds me. There’s the Maison des Tetes decorated with over a hundred masks, the Dominican Church and the Church of St. Martin both austere in their lines, the Guard House a medley of the classic Renaissance style and local ornamentation, the Koïfhüs partly Gothic, and the Maison Pfister, which is largely maedieval decorated with murals.

The town has its share of canals that take off from the River Lauch. I cross over to the Rue des Tanneurs, once home to tanners, their attics used for drying hides, and then stroll along the Rue De La Poissonnerie — beautiful with its brightly painted half-timbered houses all along the waterway. Here, in days gone by, fishermen and sellers of garden crops ferried their goods and vintners, not to be left behind, hauled their barrels of home-made wines. Though a boat ride would give a different dimension to the scene, I somehow prefer to take it all in from one of the many flower bedecked bridges, standing there till the homes are lit creating a fairyland reflected in the waters.

Culinary encounter

I decide to learn a bit about its most traditional and most used food accessory — choucroute, which is simply sauerkraut, salted fermented white cabbage.

But it’s the way it is worked upon in every home or restaurant that really sets it apart. One can add just about anything to tease the taste buds. But juniper berries and a shot of Alsace wine are key ingredients. A pile of choucroute surrounded by favourite meats or vegetables makes for a delicious, wholesome meal.