“So here we are at Durovernum Cantiacorum. Well, that’s what the Romans called Canterbury,” chirped David, our guide, pointing to an ancient tower once part of a city gate. “I’m not sure this was here during the time of the Romans, but it’s an integral part of the Canterbury mosaic.”

As we park, another antiquity comes into view — the remains of a Norman Castle. There’s a city wall trail that one can follow if one wants to delve deeper into the past. But as I already have an agenda on hand, I move on.

Meera Joshi

A boat ride on the Stour river

I walk down the Castle Street to a mediaeval stone building festooned with bright flags. This is St Margaret’s Church, which now houses the “The Canterbury Tales” exhibition. Entering through a dark passage to the gallery, I stop a bit to accustom my eyes to the dimness, to step back in time to relive the tales. Lifelike characters converge to create such a credible scenario that I am soon drawn into the adventures of chivalrous knights, the miller, the pardoner, and the nun’s anecdotes… experiencing, as the narratives unfold, the sights, sounds and, yes, even the smells of an era long gone. Emerging into the sunlight I sit awhile, eyes closed, to get back to the present.

Sauntering along, I reach Buttermarket — a delightful market square that’s been here for over 800 years. Beautifully restored buildings showcase architectural marvels, and hidden among its medley of cafés and restaurants is the shop I am here for — Canterbury Potteries. I’m lucky, for the owner Richard is available to tell me a bit about his handmade, stunningly glazed pieces. The small casserole I pick has blues and greys merging to create a distinctive flow of colour.

A peek into the Old Buttermarket — a pub that’s believed to have a resident ghost — and I am out, standing at the ornate entrance to the Cathedral. It is the Cathedral that dominates this hamlet, its tall spires visible from just about anywhere. It is here that one finds extensive expanses of early Gothic architecture characterised by pointed arches, vaulted roofs and buttresses. Though historically the Cathedral dates to 597 AD, it was completely rebuilt in 1097 with a host of additions through the ages. I gaze at the intricate carvings and sculptures, the amazing and vibrantly colourful stained glass windows — the oldest of which dates to the 12th century, the fine ornamentation of the cloisters and the dank depths of the crypt, all of which come together to create a masterpiece laced with stories and incidents, the most well-known being the murder of Thomas À Becket in 1170.

Meera Joshi

Intricate carvings at the entrance to the cathedral.

Just nearby stand St. Martin’s, the oldest Church in England, and the ruins of St. Augustine’s Abbey. A quick stroll through cobbled Sun Street to what was once the Little Inn, a three-storey timber structure with herringbone brick patterns where Charles Dickens is believed to have stayed, and St. George’s Street where juxtaposed among the sloping red-tiled roofs stands the square stone clock-tower, the only remains of St. George’s Church flattened by the Luftwaffe in 1942, and it’s time to give my feet some rest. I head to Whittard’s on St. Margaret’s Street. It’s a traditional tearoom and their pot of fresh tea with scones, clotted cream and homemade jam is more than enough to satisfy the soul.

I was now ready to take in Canterbury from a different perspective. I look out for a boat tour on the Stour river that meanders through the town. And I catch it at King’s Bridge just by the Old Weaver’s House, another landmark. This building, with its white walls and black wood framework, once housed Flemish and Hugenot weavers who, fleeing France, found refuge here.

A small group gathers and we are ready to go. It’s to Greyfriars first on a small island on the river; this oldest remaining Franciscan chapel rests among quiet and serene surroundings. Under ancient bridges, along homes on the riverbanks with windows overflowing with flowers, we paddle quietly, taking in some grand views of the Cathedral and the Marlowe Theatre. The tour lasts a good 40 minutes.

It’s now time to simply stand and gaze, and enjoy the bustle of the streets — the guitar strumming songsters, peddlers of local crafts, the chatter and laughter under bright sun umbrellas and, of course, the people from just about everywhere making the most of their visits to this bit of England, steeped in history.

For more information: http://www.historic-uk.com/DestinationsUK/Canterbury.htm

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