The Hindu Business Line : Quirky retreats

It's a little ram-shackled and overgrown, but it's a rare section of the Great Wall that's private and peaceful, away from the maddening crowds that flock to one of China's most visited landmarks. But there's a catch. You have to be a guest at one of China's few design hotels, The Commune, to enjoy the private pathway that leads to these stunning views.

The Commune is set on 1,900 acres, just an hour's drive from the capital. It's the brainchild of Beijing designer Zhang Xin - who handpicked 12 Asian architects and offered them $1 million each to design their dream home. The Kempinski hotel group took over management rights some years ago and now there are 42 villas on offer with around 236 rooms and suites.

Designing change

But when it comes to hotels in China, there are slim pickings if you're looking for true gems of original design.

"More things will develop after the Olympics - the big name brands have monopolised the area so far. all of which are very good, but there's a lack of the more contemporary, quirkier hotels at the moment," says Tony Chambers, Editor-in-chief of design magazine Wallpaper.

So away from The Commune, finding original hotel design is about as easy as getting anywhere quickly in Beijing traffic!

The Emperor is a Beijing-based hotel and the only Chinese listing with the self-appointed style gurus at Design Hotels - an organisation with a hand-selected collection of more than 150 hotels in over 40 countries around the world.

Situated in the Forbidden City and near the bustling financial street `Wang Fu Jin', the 55-room hotel is nestled on a tree-lined avenue and from the rooftop Jacuzzi you can see the traditional temples below. The hotel is due to open its doors in early April and visitors should be sure to check out the rooftop bar `Yin' (which means drink) as well as the traditional `raising of the lanterns' ceremony at sunset.

Blend of new and old

If Beijing is the conservative older sister, Shanghai is the ultra-modern upstart. Once known as the Paris of the Orient, Shanghai has always had an edgier feel, so it's no surprise that there are a few more original hotel designs to be found here.

A recent addition to Shanghai's growing boutique brigade is the JIA Shanghai. The Philippe Starck-designed 1920s' warehouse is a unique blend of modern and local architecture and design.

JIA means `home' and this 55-room establishment is decked out with bespoke furniture from interior designer Andre Fu. Fu is the? ?prot‚g‚ of renowned architect John Pawson and the designer of celebrity homes in Hong Kong, including Michelle Yeoh's.

But possibly Shanghai's best kept secret is Z58. It's the headquarters of Chinese lighting company Zhongtai by the acclaimed Japanese architect Kengo Kuma. And at the top of this building are two fully equipped suites with state of the art electronics, sauna as well as a metal louvered ceiling which opens to give a beautiful view of the night sky through the glass roof. The building is wrapped in horizontal planters, and a lush green barrier has grown between the inside and outside world. Once inside, you feel like you are in a secluded forest.

So slowly, but surely, the consensus is that things are starting to change on the hotel scene in China. And already, if you know where to look, there are some gems to be found.

Off the beaten track

When in Beijing

PLACES TO STAY

The Commune by The Great Wall, Shuiguan Great Wall, Badaling Highway 00 861081181888 www.communebythegreatwall.com

The Emperor 33 Qihelou Street, Dong Cheng District, Beijing 00861065265566 www.theemperor.com.cn

WHERE TO EAT

The Source 14 Banchang Hutong, Kuanjie, 00861064003736

This Sichuan style restaurant is situated in a meticulously converted courtyard house. Yves Wenker, General Manager at The Commune tells me it was originally meant to be an art gallery, but visitors were so impressed with the food, its owner Bing Bing turned it into a restaurant.

People 8 18 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Beijing 0086106515 8585

Ultra cool dining in a stylishly dark Zen-like setting: this high-class Shintori restaurant chain serves up Japanese-Chinese fusion cuisine. The sashimi plate is a treat. And you don’t want to miss the toilets, if you can find them.

SHOPPING

Of course, you can find all the big name brands at the Shin Kong Plaza, or great knockoffs at the Silk Market or the downtown Yashow Market. But locally designed stylish clothes are a little harder to find.

Dolores Semeraro, PR Manager at The Emperor recommends snooping around the colourful Chinese shops near the Xidan subways station for interesting and authentic dresses and shoes. “Most of the tourists don’t go inside because the shop windows aren’t that attractive, but believe me, half my outfits come from there!” says Semeraro.

Contemporary Chinese art is making a name for itself internationally. Most tourists will head for 798, the trendy factory area for budding young artists. But locals say it’s becoming too commercial and expensive. Best head for the nearby Nan Luo Guxiang — a traditional street in roughly the same area, lined with small private art galleries of new Chinese talent.

…and in Shanghai

PLACES TO STAY

JIA Shanghai 931 West Nanjing Road, Shanghai 00862162179000 www.jiashanghai.com

Z58 Fanyu Road 58, French Concession, Shanghai 0086 21 52585858

www.z58.org

WHERE TO EAT

Yongfoo Elite 200 Youngfu Lu, near Hunan Lu, metro line 1 Hengshan Lu Station 00862154662727.

This is a ‘member’s only’ restaurant — where Shanghai cuisine, art deco design and traditional Chinese opera meet. Qing dynasty-era recipes come with a modern twist.

Lynn 99-1 Xikang Lu, Nanjing Xi Lu, near Nanjing Xi Lu 0086216247 0101

This eatery successfully combines Suzhou, Zhejiang and Shanghai cuisine. Plush quarters, with efficient service and reasonable prices.

SHOPPING

The Art Deco buildings along The Bund are home to upmarket boutiques, slick restaurants and bars. New chic places, head for the Xintiandi district where traditional dwellings have been restored and this area is now one of the city’s most fashionable shopping areas, jam-packed with boutiques, cafes and restaurants. But for one-off pieces head to Taikang Lu, and be sure to look out for Tian Zi Fang, (lane number 210) home to a host of upcoming artists and designers.

The author is the Presenter of Fast:Track,

BBC World News' travel programme, which airs every Wednesday at 9 p.m.

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