The Hindu Business Line : Chiselled beauties

We lost all track of time while discovering an amazing wealth of details in the ornate carvings of the temples at Belur and Halebid, a must on the itinerary of tourists visiting Karnataka. The Chennakesava temple, the only Hoysala temple still in active worship, is an art connoisseur’s delight and hailed as the Taj of South India for its ethereal quality. It is sheer poetry in stone.

The temple, commemorating the victory of the Hoysalas over the Cholas in the great Battle of Talakad, took 103 years to complete. Located on the banks of the Yagachi River, Belur was the erstwhile capital of the Yadava kings. ‘Hoy Sala’ — meaning ‘Strike, Sala’ — were the words called out to Sala, the legendary head of the dynasty, when he was involved in combat with a tiger. Sala immortalised himself and the tiger by single-handedly killing the animal, and this heroism inspired the royal emblem of the Hoysala dynasty found carved at the entrance of most temples built by them.

Exquisite carvings

Susheela Nair

Singing, dancing stones: (From top) Chennakesava temple in Belur; Hoysaleswara temple in Halebid; carved symbol of the Hoysala dynasty — Sala combats a tiger.

The temple’s towering ornamental gopuram grabs attention. At the entrance, facing the temple is the winged figure of Garuda, Lord Vishnu’s carrier, palms touching in homage. Also remarkable is a tall stone pillar in the courtyard, balanced by nothing but its own centre of gravity. The friezes of elephants — marching in a single line and each different from the other, mythological figures, military scenes, dancers and musicians, and elaborate decorative motifs charge the imagination. The walls are covered with detailed carvings of scenes from the Mahabharata and Ramayana, including the 18-day war and the pranks that the Pandavas and Kauravas played on each other.

Bevy of beauties

We spent endless hours gazing in admiration at the sculpted figures of the 38 madanikas or celestial nymphs. The beautiful and expressive nymphs are depicted singing, dancing or even executing daily chores. Their makeup, jewellery and coiffures are sculpted in extensive detail.

The three-dimensional figures of deities and dancing girls that adorn the outer pillars are chiselled with astounding finesse and realism. One goddess, for instance, is seen squeezing the water out of her hair and you can actually see the drops collected on the hair-ends and dripping from it. You can catch another dancer in the act of beating his drum. Yet another beautifully carved female form holds a bowl of fruit on which a fly has landed; a large lizard lurks nearby, its mouth open in readiness to swallow the hapless insect. One annoyed lady is shooing a monkey that is pulling at her sari, while another brushes a scorpion from her garment. Another sculpture outside the temple depicts a lady with a 360-degree turn of her body which is anatomically impossible. But it is the stunning sculpture of the Darpanasundari (lady with a mirror) — the epitome of beauty, grace and charm — which steals the show.

Pillars of artistry

The dark interior of the temple flaunts 48 perfectly carved and polished pillars decorated with elegant geometric designs and life-size statues of Vishnu, Lakshmi and other deities, which almost seem to step forth from the stone.

The Narasimha pillar once used to revolve on its ball-bearing foundations. One pillar has a dancing lady whose bangles can actually move up and down her arms; another has a headdress with a tiny, movable ring. The smooth circular platform in front of the shrine has a sculpture of Shanthala Devi, queen of the Hoysala king Vishnuvardhana. Equally impressive are the temples of Chennigaraya, Viranarayana, Sridevi and Bhoodevi — all in the same complex.

Star-shaped temple

The Hoysaleswara temple at Halebid (16 km), though similar to the Belur temple, has a more eye-catching exterior. The walls of the star-shaped temple are richly carved with an endless variety of deities, sages, stylised animals, birds and friezes depicting the life of the Hoysala kings. The doorway with its elaborate makathoranam (decoration) is very attractive. The temple is divided into two chambers, one each for Shiva and Parvati, with two entrances presided over by large Nandis (Shiva’s bull). A striking image here is that of the demon king Ravana shaking Shiva’s mountain abode, Kailasa.

The walls feature several layers of friezes — at the bottom is an endless procession of elephants, some of them playfully interlocking trunks; above this is a row of lions, their courage surmounting the strength and wisdom of the elephants; the subsequent layers feature a row of horsemen engaging in battle, mythical four-legged animals, peacocks and, finally, vignettes from the daily life of the Hoysalas: hunting, warfare, worship, amorous dalliances. But the scenes depicting dancing and music predominate.

Culminate your heritage trip with a visit to the museum in the temple complex which houses 12th-13th century sculptures, wood carvings, idols, coins and inscriptions — they are definitely worth a look.

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