The Hindu Business Line : Streets of Samba

Rio of colours: During the Carnaval every nook and corner of Rio de Janeiro comes alive with street parties that indulge joyfully in fantastic costumes, reverberating Samba and sleepless nights.

Aparna Shekar Roy

Where on earth can you pretend to be someone else for an entire week and get away with it? Where can you have beer and barbecue for breakfast and not a single person would consider it strange? Where can you climb up political statues and historic monuments and sing at the top of your voice, and it would be considered a celebration, not disrespect? Where can you dance non-stop to live music and not pay a penny? Where can women pee standing up? This is not a fantasy land. Su ch a place really exists. It’s called Rio de Janeiro. Having returned from a seven-month trip across Latin America, three weeks of which were spent at ‘Rio Carnaval’, the grandest party in the world, I am still reeling with the craziness of it all.

Invited by Ronaldo and Renata, my friends through an online travel community, I reached Rio a week ahead of the Carnaval and was not a bit surprised to see that the party had already begun. After all, the Brazilians seem born with the penchant to party. However, my understanding of the Carnaval was fairly warped, limited to viewing one-minute news clippings about semi-naked Samba dancers — the predominant image associated with the event. In reality, the Carnaval is an orgy of multiple cultural elements that you can experience only by stepping into the shoes of a local.

Luckily, my induction began immediately on arrival, with an introduction to the two popular elements of the Rio Carnaval — the oh-so-touristy massive parade of the Escolas De Samba, the Samba schools that compete in the Sambodromo (parade area); and the locally loved Blocos de Rua, street parties that happen in every nook and corner of the city. Being a first-timer, I did not want to let go of either experience. The cheapest available ticket for the Sambodromo was quickly bought and the rest of my shoestring budget and time were focused on the street parties.

Five-step abandon

To experience the street parties, a simple five-step process is advised. Indulge in some Fantasia, costumes — the more ridiculous the better; learn to Samba, sing and dance — integral to Brazilian culture; remember that Cerveja is Agua, beer is water; tuck away your camera and money in a safety pouch under your pants; and finally, forget about sleep before stepping out for the week.

I loved the way Brazilians simplified everything.

Shopping was the first step and the destination was Saara market, the Crawford market of Rio which sold Fantasia ranging from exotic samba costumes to cheap mix-and-match options. The streets were dazzling with displays of all things feather and sequins.

Assessing all the paraphernalia, I was torn between dressing up as a devil, a beer can, a sexy nurse or a prostitute. My friends did mention that if I could conjure up a bit of everything in my costume, I would be any man’s dream come true. That scared me and I just decided to play the devil.

Three-step Samba

Sporting my red ensemble on the first day, I headed out with Renata and her friends to Carmelitas Bloco in the Bohemian neighbourhood of Santa Teresa. This historical Bloco paraded in costumes of nuns, portraying the legend of a reclusive nun who couldn’t resist the parade and escaped from the convent, returning only on the last day of the Carnaval. Nothing could have prepared me for the colourful chaos. From mummies to clowns, firefighters to cross-dressers, the streets were filled with Cariocas in their creative best. Singing Marcinhas, the songs of the Carnaval, the Cariocas danced their way towards the band, which marched along a fixed route. The sun did not spare us that day, but the residents of Santa Teresa stood in their balconies with water hoses, generously spraying cool water on the dancing crowds. Drenched with sweat, water and the occasional spray of beer, I mastered the three-step Samba movement. The energy was unbelievable, and this was just the beginning!

Bloco-busters!

That week saw us visiting Blocos in various neighbourhoods, each totally different from the other. Apart from the evident entertainment value, Blocos celebrated a theme, mocked an issue or supported a social cause. Bloco Facinha, in the posh area of Ipanema, appealed to the young and restless with their theme ‘Vem Ni Mim Que Eu Sou Facinha’ (Hit on me, I’m easy). Not too far away was another Bloco giving away free condoms and promoting safe sex. Bloco Mulheres Do Chico, a group dedicated to playing the music of the famous Brazilian artist Chico Buarque, gave us a share of traditional Samba while Bloco Empolga Às 9, which means Excitement at 9, created by a group of youngsters at Post 9 the beach, played Funk and Rock infused with Samba.

We braved large-scale Blocos like Cordão do Bola Preta, who with their cult status, managed to attract more than 2 lakh people. Spending days and nights in the streets, dancing and drinking, we went home only to change our costumes and sneaked into bars to use the restrooms. After two days, we ditched even that idea when we found a lady giving away to women this unique handmade funnel-shaped product called ‘Xixi Feliz’ (Happy Pee), encouraging us to pee in street corners. Liberating as it was, I felt a little guilty. Then I reminded myself that Carnaval was definitely not a time to think about civic sense.

Sleep-deprived but charged with energy, I tore myself away from the Blocos during the final days of the Carnaval, to witness the incredible parade put up by the Samba schools. Now, back home in the confines of my small apartment in Mumbai, I secretly dance to the beats of Rio Samba every once in a while. I’ve kept intact my devil’s hat and my glitter-stained dress from that week. It sure feels like a dream I do not want to wake up from.

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