An annual pilgrimage for jewellery enthusiasts, the Couture Show in Las Vegas attracts incredible designers and brands from far corners of the world. Retailers, journalists, bloggers and buyers congregate to the show, eager to scout for emerging talents, admire the works of favourite jewellers and marvel at the grand display of stunning designs — made with attractive materials, and realised with skilful artistry and precision.

As with any jewellery fair that has earned international renown, the highlight of the five-day Couture Show is undeniably the Couture Design Awards. Assessed and examined by judges, these compelling jewels emerge winners on the basis of merit, technique, imagination, style, and innovation, among others.

It is impossible to not fall in love with jewellery that unites exquisite stones with marvellous aesthetics. One such design is the striking statement collier crafted by Italian jeweller Pasquale Bruni, who took home the prize for ‘Best in Haute Couture’.

Tiny diamond blossoms, set in the silhouette of a heart featuring threads of white gold, adorn the precious 4TH Chakra necklace that also has a lovely heart-motif diamond clasp. Sprinkled with a profusion of brilliant-cut diamonds and pear-cut Colombian emerald, the collier symbolises energy radiating from the chakra of the heart, while its emerald drop evokes positivity.

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Best debut Designer Leyla Abdollahi bagged the ‘Best in Debuting at Couture’ award for her Flowing Rhythm necklace, set in white and yellow gold, and embellished with diamonds and emeralds. Abdollahi was thrilled at winning the prize. “It is such an honour to be recognised and appreciated among a sea of great artists and designers,” she said. The UK-based designer’s signature style is characterised by a bold and unique approach to design. Informed by organic forms and structures, the necklace also draws upon nature’s fluid lines, allowing it to sensually glide down the collarbone. “The necklace’s symmetrical form allows you to wear it from any side you wish, and it looks just the same from each side. Therefore, it was quite challenging but essential to create a clasp that is hidden and wouldn’t disturb the design,” she added.

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Kitschy bling Those who were hungry for innovation turned to Nadine Ghosn’s gluten-free jewelled Veggie Burger. This talented young Lebanese-Brazilian designer captures pop culture with her designs. The on-trend stackable Veggie Burger ring, launched in 2016, features six rose gold rings. The rings are set with 260 gemstones, including champagne diamonds, tsavorites, sapphires, rubies and diamonds, and accented with enamel. Needless to say, the ring made quite a splash at the show and won the award for ‘Best in Innovative’ category. “It’s not easy to break barriers in jewellery and for me to be awarded for being ‘innovative’ in this industry is very flattering,” said a delighted Ghosn.

Brazilian-born jewellery designer, Fernando Jorge, debuted his first diamond-focussed collection, entitled Brilliant, at the show. A noted departure from his previous colour-infused pieces, the new line, featuring lightweight gold structures, celebrates the brilliance of diamonds. The inspiration for the design emanates from the natural radiance of diamonds and the brilliant cut. “I’ve had the idea to make this collection for a while and wanted to use diamonds — the most familiar stone in jewellery — in a new and interesting way,” he said. Sheer brilliance and genius characterise the Brilliant Disco earrings, which won the ‘Best in Diamonds Above $20,000’ award. This beautifully articulated design evokes memories of the waves in a gentle sea.

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Playing with textures New York-based Sara Freedenfeld of Amáli creates fabric-like sensibility in her jewellery. Her long necklace, which won the ‘Best in Colored Gemstones Below $20,000,’ has intricately woven chains featuring Ethiopian opals suspended between two chains. “I have worked so hard over the past 10 years to build my company and have enjoyed bringing my vision to life. But it has not always been an easy road. For my peers and people, who I respect, to recognise my design in this way brings me immense joy. It makes me feel like I can pause and exhale for a moment,” said the thrilled designer.

An epitome of minimalism, the Endless cocktail ring by New-York based Michal Kadar melds her imagination with mastery of technique. This ring from Cadar, which won ‘Best in Gold’ award, comprises diamond edged heart-shaped blades that can be flicked back and forth, adding a touch of playfulness to its artful design.

Jade Trau’s diamond rings won the prize for ‘Best in Bridal’, while John Hardy took home the top prize for ‘Best in Colored Gemstones Above $20,000’ for its stellar gem-encrusted gold cuff. The Lingkaran Permata cuff (meaning ‘jewelled circle’ in Indonesian) features a shank richly paved with black diamonds, blue tourmalines, blue, green and black sapphires, and colour-change garnets, while cabochon green tourmalines accent tips of the cuff.

Furrer Jacot won the award for ‘Best in Men’s Jewelry,’ while Heinrich & Denzel bagged the ‘Best in Platinum’ honours. German jewellery brand Atelier Zobel’s hexagonal honeycomb-inspired necklace snapped up the prize for ‘Best in Silver’ category, while fine jewellery house Mariani’s diamond pendant necklace bagged the ‘People’s Choice’ honours, and a sculptural cuff by Italian jewellery brand Garavelli won the award for ‘Best in Diamonds Below $20,000’.

Yvel’s homage to the beauty of natural baroque pearls won the ‘Best in Pearls’ prize: the white pearl bracelet, crafted in 18k white gold and set with diamonds, is a delightfully prizeworthy piece. Italian jeweller Giovanni Ferraris took home the coveted Editor’s Choice award for its fluid and organic Dancing Earrings, crafted in titanium, gold and diamonds.

Smitha Sadanandan is a luxury journalist specialising in jewellery & watches

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