The Chinese zodiac is based on a 12-year cycle with 12 specific animals representing each year, and the rooster ranks 10th out of the 12 animals. With fire being the chosen element this year, it is the year of the Fire Rooster. “It means very different things for those born at different times because Chinese astrology is complex. People born in the Year of the Rooster are generally known to be observant and confident, besides being punctual, hard-working and resourceful,” said Wendy Yue, Hong Kong-based jewellery designer. Needless to say, the zodiac sign has prompted jewellers and watchmakers to explore creative options inspired by the fowl. Yue’s rose gold rooster pendant crafted in black jade and embellished with corals, garnets, black diamonds, tsavorites, rubies, yellow sapphires and diamonds took her nearly three months to complete. The pendant, which is a black jade bottle, is in fact a real perfume bottle — hollow on the inside — marked by meticulous craftsmanship. “In ancient China, these were called snuff bottles and were used to hold herbal medicines that could be inhaled. They were also used for perfume and tobacco,” Yue explained.

Fowl play Never one to shy away from daring designs, Paris-based designer Lydia Courteille offered us the perfect opportunity to marvel at her gold Fire Rooster ring, from her Animal Farm collection, and a pair of drop earrings. Featuring luminous fire opals and coloured gemstones, these precious pieces are undeniable conversation starters. A proud rooster is the inspiration behind Roberto Coin’s latest whimsical creation. The Gallo ring, glorifying the bird, is an addition to the Italian jeweller’s Animalier collection. Expertly crafted in white gold and set with diamonds and black, yellow and orange sapphires, these gemstones were chosen to symbolise the lucky colours for 2017.

Russian jewellery house Master Exclusive draws upon its exquisite enamelling techniques to realise a gallant rooster brooch in multi-coloured enamel, while London-based designer Annoushka Ducas embellishes her yellow gold rooster amulet with black and brown diamonds. The limited edition Fire Rooster amulet is a new addition to her popular Mythology collection.

Keeping time with the zodiac Watchmakers thriving on creative inspirations have come up with miniature artworks to celebrate The Year of The Rooster. Paying homage to the Fire Rooster, they have successfully captured the beauty of the rooster’s plumage on the dials with utmost finesse. Chopard, Vacheron Constantin, Ulysse Nardin and Sicis have designed covetable timepieces with high levels of creative flair.

We were won over by Bovet’s Amadeo Fleurier watch that boasts a clever reversed hand-fitting and eye-catching dial: the white lacquered dial has Roman applied numerals on the front and white mother-of-pearl with a miniature painting of a rooster on the reverse side. Bovet has shown its devotion to the Chinese zodiac sign with two models of the watch; one featuring a white gold case and the other a red gold case. Renowned for its groundbreaking creative approach to watchmaking, Piaget has presented an elegant addition to its horology arsenal. The maison has turned to its favourite artist – world-renowned master enameller Anita Porchet – to embellish the 38-piece collector’s edition rooster watch, featuring a white gold case adorned with 78 brilliant-cut diamonds. Masterfully handcrafted in the Grand Feu cloisonné tradition, Porchet unleashes her creativity to bring to life Piaget’s handsome rooster that seems to pontificate on the dial.

Monochromes and miniatures Exploring the rooster theme, Jaquet Droz has created four new watches to celebrate the Chinese New Year. A stunning collaboration with Ateliers d’Art, Jaquet Droz resorts to miniature painting for two of the models: the Grand Feu enamel dials in red gold cases set with diamonds feature the rooster along with peonies, to evoke springtime renewal, while bamboo shoots in the painting represent the promise of happiness. Limited to just 28 pieces, two other models are realised using miniature sculpture technique. To accentuate the details on the Petite Heure Minute Rooster watch, volumes of red gold have been combined with a dial inlaid with jadeite and mother-of-pearl – hand-engraved in the maison’s workshops. Jaquet Droz has also launched eight timepieces entirely hand-painted in monochromatic shades, which highlight the relief.

Symbolising courage, confidence and fidelity, Harry Winston’s majestic rooster in Grand Feu enamel is perfected by hand. The Harry Winston Premier Rooster Automatic watch features an emerald-cut diamond on the dial embodying Mr Winston’s love for emerald-cut gems. Alluding to his fascination for blue diamonds, the feathers of the rooster have been painted in deep blue, while the diamond-set lugs at either end of the case emulate the arched stone entrance to the maison’s flagship salon on Fifth Avenue (New York). The case is elegantly adorned with 57 brilliant-cut diamonds.

Smitha Sadanandanis a journalist specialising in jewellery and watches, who enjoys tracking international trends in the industry.

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