Spanning 46 km and 39 stations, the Yangon circular rail forms a loop around the capital of Myanmar. Built by the British, the 72-year-old commuter service network connects Yangon’s suburbs and satellite towns. Most passengers are vendors from rural areas, using the rail to cart vegetables and other produce to markets. It is considered the cheapest means of experiencing a slice of local life — a ticket on the circular rail costs 200 kyats (₹10 approximately). The average number of tickets sold daily is said to be around 1,50,000.
Apart from the cleanliness of the compartments — which are packed with perishable goods daily — the authorities have been concerned about the fumes that the diesel locomotives on this network generate. The gap between each station is about 20 minutes, making the ride rather unhurried. The windows are free of barriers and people can be seen leaning out to watch the world go by.
The stations, barring Yangon Central, are tiny and commuters usually cross the tracks on foot. The vendors aboard the train ensure that no fellow passenger goes hungry or thirsty — one can choose from quail eggs, fried tofu, tea, tobacco et al to make the three-hour run more appetising.
Myanmar likes early mornings, hence the first service leaves Yangon Central at 3.45 am. The last train leaves at 10.15 pm. Technical snags are common, but no one seems to mind delays or the dirt.
Shome Basu
Ready to roll: Inside one of the newer coaches, which were imported in 2011
Finishing touch: A Burmese teak cupboard being painted on a platform in Yangon
In slow motion: Buddhist monks usually travel free on the circular rail network
Going steady: A daily wage worker waits to jump off the train as it pulls into a station
Where the journey begins: Overview of Yangon Central, the largest station on the circular rail route
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