Czech it out

Czech cuisine might not be something that makes the taste buds salivate but there is an element of simplicity and clean flavours that appeals to some foodies. The cuisine of Czech Republic has also been guided by Austrian, Hungarian and German influences. There is a lot on the platter, but pork is the mainstay of Czech cuisine. It is cooked in a variety of ways and is almost always accompanied by potatoes, sauerkraut and steamed vegetables.

While you must not miss out on the pork, here are a few other must-haves of Prague, the Czech capital.

Roast pork

At the Medieval Hotel in Detenice just outside Prague, the evening meal is a production with knights, soldiers, weird sketches and belly dancing. Against this backdrop, diners are served gigantic platters of roast pork doused in sauce and accompanied by roast potatoes and sauerkraut. It is simple and hearty. Cooked on an open fire, the meat with the smoky notes is ready to fall off the bones. However, roast pork is available all over Prague, in case you are strapped for time. It will come with potatoes (mashed or fried) and cabbage sauerkraut, though the beetroot version has more character.

Gulas

As much as roast pork is popular, it faces stiff competition from the other prominent Czech dish, the hearty gulas. Drawn from the Hungarian goulash, the Czech variety is more delineated and less like the stew that it is usually known to be. It comprises chunks of tender beef (or pork) doused in gravy with roasted onions and spiced with herbs. It is served with wheat and potato dumplings.

In a stew Gulas, a meat dish, draws from the Hungarian goulash

Nakladany hermelin

The name might seem intimidating but it is simply marinated cheese. Whether it is one of the many Czech beers or Becherovka, a piquant and incredibly potent liquor born in the spa town of Karlovy Vary, the best accompaniment is a thick slab of nakladany hermelin , a soft cheese marinated in oil and spices, and served with pickled onions and peppers. The whole ensemble is a medley of textures and soft flavours that enhances the flavour of the beer or the Becherovka.

Though it has gained the reputation of being a bar snack, it is served in elegant restaurants as well as in cafés and is the perfect dish to start a meal with.

Knedliky

If there’s a traditional Czech meal to be had, chances are it will be accompanied by some form of knedliky . It is a cross between a bread and dumpling and has so many variations that it’s mind-boggling. Soft and fluffy, the generic variety is made with flour and potatoes and steamed. It could also contain mushrooms and spices and herbs. It is usually ball-shaped or cylindrical, creamy in colour, and is served sliced. Indians may find it bland but it is perfect for mopping up sauces and gravies that accompany the main dish.

Rizek

Borrowed from the Austro-Hungarian empire, rizek is like schnitzel but comes with its own little distinguishing feature. Made usually with veal or pork, and sometimes with chicken, this is a little slab or slice of meat that is initially pounded for an even texture. It is then given a triple coat comprising flour, whisked egg and breadcrumb. The whole ensemble is then shallow fried or deep fried and served with roast potatoes or French fries. Unlike most other Czech dishes, this usually does not have a gravy or sauce.

Sausages

Available both on streets and in cafés and restaurants, Czech sausage, also called jaternice , is usually prepared with pork and spices as well as rice or barley. Though it is quite common to have it boiled or steamed, the most popular way is to roast it till the outer skin is crispy and almost crackling. It is usually served with mashed potatoes and sometimes French fries. To cater to a wide variety of palates, these sausages are now available in many flavours (paprika and pepper, for example), and even have spicy versions.

Meat market: The Czech sausage is popular on the streets as well as in restaurants

Beer

There’s no escaping beer in Prague. In fact, there are so many delicious varieties that you can’t leave the city without tasting some of them. From the more popular ones such as Krusovice and Kozel to small-batch craft beers, there’s far too much to choose from. However, there’s also another way to experience it, by literally soaking it up. Prague is known for its beer spas where wooden tubs, much like vats, are filled with warm water, hops and yeast and allowed to bubble like a Jacuzzi. It is fun to lounge in this concoction, the air filled with the hoppy beer smell, even as you pull pints of dark or light beers from adjoining taps and sample slices of beer bread. While the spas insist the combination of hops can do wonders for the skin, it is the novelty and enjoyment of splashing around in liquid while imbibing it that makes for a memorable experience.

Anita Rao Kashi is a freelance writer based in Bengaluru

COMMENT NOW