In the post-pandemic world, all of us had crawled out of our work-from-home caves in pyjamas, and realised that we may not need to look so put together anymore. Comfort became top priority. Suddenly, those skinny jeans or well-fitted trousers seemed too restricting. Nothing — not even formal occasions — could discourage us from sinking into our favourite baggy clothes. We wanted to feel at home everywhere.

Somewhere in between all this, the loose silhouetted ‘co-ord set’ became popular. It was the perfect successor to loungewear and athleisure, and it was slightly more fashionable. 

Those who swear by it will list their reasons — comfort over style, a flattering fit for all body types, and no fuss over deciding what to wear with what. Besides, you can sit however you like — rolled up like a taco on your bed, feet folded up on your favourite office chair, or just posing fashionably on a picnic with your besties. While the co-ord set trend began in the West, its Indo-western versions with a slightly longer top captured India.

But there are plenty who despise it, too. This looks too much like a night suit, they say. So, is the co-ord set really just an upgraded loungewear? Or is there more to it than meets the eye? And why are people so divided over it?

Embracing imperfection

Let’s think back to the time baggy clothes burst into our lives. They weren’t simply asking for comfort. In a world grappling with disillusionment after Covid, they were expressing a call for all of us to be authentic, imperfect and comfortable in our own skin. This also drew on conversations happening on social media platforms. As netizens, we wanted to see vulnerable and imperfect images, as the body positivity movement gained traction. 

trueBrowns range of co-ord sets

trueBrowns range of co-ord sets

We all wondered what lay behind the photoshopped and airbrushed images of our stars and influencers. The ‘Get unready with me’ trend, no-makeup selfies, and ‘unfiltered’ YouTube podcasts focused on authenticity, just like our baggy loungewear. 

Celebrities and influencers were now influencing people positively, by being real, imperfect, and honest. 

Real or constructed?

Over time, authenticity has become a mainstream norm. We want to seem effortlessly authentic and imperfect, so we intentionally construct it, rather than letting it happen organically. Think of how music production houses are releasing lo-fi versions of songs, which intentionally have low production quality, with background disturbances. You may have also seen the intentionally blurred images that celebrities and influencers now post for their glamorous looks, to underline how their pictures were taken in the moment. Many film stars now appear in almost no-glam looks on podcasts with Raj Shamani and Ranveer Allahabadia ahead of film releases. These podcasts are meant to glean unfiltered and behind-the-scenes insights from across professions and industries through informal conversations. 

How is this connected with our newfound darling, the co-ord set? Because it, too, constructs authenticity and imperfection. It intentionally mimics the loose silhouette and no-nonsense matching of the night suit, with the clear objective of being worn outside home. This is why sartorial experts keep telling us that there is a thin line between a night suit and a co-ord set. We need to style it correctly to protect us from looking ready for bed. So while the idea of the co-ord set is to showcase minimal effort and being comfortable and real, it does demand effort to look that “effortless” and “candid”. Just like the no-makeup makeup look.

Subliminal messaging

The co-ord set is a big reminder of our efforts to be real, comfortable and vulnerable, no matter how intentional they may be. If you’ve been out and about anywhere, you’ve seen the co-ord set on enough people to know that it’s here to stay. The signs are all there... an authentic, comfortable, international, on-trend constructed self is recognised by all. Smart brands and couturiers have even begun marketing loose salwar-kameezes or lovely kaftan-inspired drapes as co-ord sets. And, even the naysayers have succumbed.

(Hamsini Shivakumar is a Semiotician and founder of Leapfrog Strategy. Khushi Rolania is a senior research analyst at Leapfrog Strategy)