Tasting of Mansaf in Jordan

If we, a group of Indian journalists on a Jordan Tourism Board (JTB) -sponsored visit to the country got to sample the mind-boggling Jordanian delicacy, the Mansaf, it was thanks to the tenacity of Marryam Reshii, a well-known Indian food journalist.

The pining for Mansaf began on the second day of our tour, at the office of the JTB MD Nayef Al-Fayez. We soon found that he could hold forth also on subjects other than Jordan's tourism delights. He told us how the hummus here was a little different, about the Mutabbal made with eggplant and tahini and was consumed with plain yoghurt, etc. Interestingly, as in India, a lot of yoghurt is consumed in Jordan. But the sparkle in his eyes was reserved for the Mansaf, Jordan's most traditional dish originally made by the Bedouins. Now, no feast is considered complete without this traditional delicacy.

Rice dish with lamb

The Mansaf is a rice dish made with lamb which is cooked in a broth made from a dried yogurt-like product called  jameed, and served on a large platter with a layer of flatbread ( markook ), which we didn't even look at because the rice was so delicious! On this, a layer of fragrant rice is spread, this is covered by huge chunks of tender lamb and the dish is garnished with finely chopped parsley, roasted or fried almonds, peanuts or pine nuts. Alongside the large platter is placed a huge bowl of the yoghurt broth and this is generously ladled onto the pulao-like dish on the table.

After this mouth watering description, our guide Basel Ahmad was read out the riot act… without tasting the Mansaf we wouldn't return to India. Hasty calls were made, the itinerary was changed and we had a gourmet experience to cherish at the Al-Qantarah Restaurant near Petra. Here, one must admit, the man who greeted us and introduced himself as both Andy Garcia and Al Pacino – he was a cross between the two – was only a little less scrumptious!

Ahmad, whose father is a chef, knew a lot about food too – apparently Jordanian men have more than good looks – said, “When we have Mansaf, there is no Mezze (starters), and the meal begins with Bedouin coffee to wake up and relax you!”

His method: In a big pan the meat is cooked in lemon juice, onions, garlic, salt, herbs, olive oil, and spices such as cardamom and black pepper. To this is added pieces of jameed and the entire mixture has to be stirred continuously. The rice is cooked separately and the broth is removed and served alongside the garnished dish on the table.

We discovered that the more broth you add to the Mansaf, the more delectable and fragrant it becomes because all the taste and flavours of the ingredients have seeped into the broth. Very soon we put aside the forks and knives and dug into the huge platter on the table with our fingers.

Surely the Bedouin had no time for forks!

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