It was 4.30 pm and a purple dusk had enveloped the massive market in Imphal, the capital of Manipur. Nearly 4,000 women were busy trying to sell their perishable and non-perishable goods so they could wind up with a tidy profit by end of day.

The sprawling bazaar is popularly known as ‘Ima Keithel’ or ‘Ima Market’ or simply ‘Mothers’ Market’ and sells a range of products for daily use. Women, mostly old, middle-aged and a handful of younger ones congregate every day to sell a rich variety of rustic merchandise — from fresh fruits, vegetables, assorted meat, fish and local herbs to shoots and roots, raw edible bamboo, bundles of banana leaves and other forest produce. Also on sale are jewellery items, local handicraft, dolls, toys, knives, and innumerable cane, rice and bamboo products.

At this remarkable mothers’ market, women squat cross-legged in their own spaces, surrounded by their respective wares. Even the cacophony of shoppers and shopkeepers is unique as they speak various dialects, drawn from dissimilar tribes and regions of the State.

This ancient market dating back to the 16th century, according to some records, offers a unique experience for anyone visiting it. The earliest mention of ‘Ima Keithel’ is from 1533, describing how mini-markets were established in various places for small business transactions. Based on the Gazetteer of Manipur dated 1786, researchers surmise that all the selling was conducted by women in the open air and later in temporary hutments along the Nambul river.

Initially the market was nothing more than makeshift carts and carriage widgets peddling their wares from 5 to 10 am, as sunrise is early in the north-east. Over the years, the market changed in nature and remained open all day. In November 2010, a permanent structure was constructed, finally offering the women shelter from the vagaries of nature.

The women make a pleasant sight wrapped in colourful innaphis (stoles) and sarong-like phaneks , their foreheads marked with elegant streaks of sandal paste. Their boisterous gossip, coupled with laughter, rings out over the hubbub of haggling between buyers and sellers. The market is a part of daily life for nearly every Manipur resident. Seventy-year-old Bilasini Devi, who grows fruits on her land and has been selling them at this market for over 45 years says, “This market is like a second family to me. I love coming here.”

More than just a hub of commerce, the market also serves as a centre for information exchange. During the lean hours of the day, the women discuss a range of issues and remain up to date on current affairs.

Despite successive waves of invaders and conquerors in this region, the women have retained their hold over the local economy on their own terms.

Their collective effort, however, has not earned the recognition it deserves. Suporna, who runs a shop here, sums it up aptly, “While the dabbawalas of Bombay are well known for their collective effort, which is only 125 years old, our Market of Matriarchs in Manipur has not got its due recognition from mainland India even though it has been in business for over 400 years.

The writer is a photographer and wildlife enthusiast based in Noida

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