A clever statement piece with hidden details and lovely surprises, secret rings are most definitely having a moment. Doors, carousels, spiders, horses, ladybirds, bird’s nest, starfish, gondola even phoenixes and dragons — jewellers have ingeniously concealed it all within technical masterpieces.

But how did secret rings take form? Jessica Wyndham, head of Sotheby’s London Jewellery Sales, says, “Compartment rings are likely to have originally contained poison. It was in the 16th century that rings became known as poison rings. It was believed that the aristocracy wore rings with concealed compartments. It usually contained poison which they would add to the drink or food of an enemy. The skill of the jewellers creating these rings had to be exceptional in order to mask the hinge and opening of the lid.”

Over time, compartment rings garnered new functions and transformed into jewels of mourning that contained miniatures and locks of hair. “These ‘mourning’ rings were in use from the 17th century. But it was in the 19th century that they became very popular and as part of the design, jewellers created compartments filled with woven patterns of the deceased’s hair,” adds Wyndham. As time went by, people began placing photographs in the secret ‘chamber’.

With an enduring appeal secret rings are once again revelling in the creative genius of their makers. Inspired by the ancient Silk Route, Piaget crafted a dazzling marquise and brilliant-cut diamond Secret and Lights high-jewellery ring in 18k white gold. The cover, adorned with a cushion-cut blue sapphire, slides across to reveal a mesmerising blue night sky and shimmering stars crafted in Grand Feu champlevé enamel.

A champion of secret rings, British jeweller Theo Fennell loves to stash secrets inside tiny suitcases, behind hidden doors, within castles and beneath gemstones. “I first became fascinated with secret rings and poison rings after a trip to Rome in the mid-’70s and designed my first one soon afterwards. I then started to design lockets and many other things that opened up and held secrets,” says Fennell, whose recent novelties include the Magpie Ring, Underwater Ring and Dragon Ring. The Magpie Ring — inspired by the magpie nursery rhyme One for Sorrow, Two for Joy — has a beautiful cabochon rubellite surrounded by diamonds, set in white gold with a magpie on either shoulder. Open up the top and you’ll see a miniature yellow gold and diamond nest with four blue opal eggs. Another work of art, Fennell’s Underwater Ring, sculpted in gold, is set with a Brazilian Paraiba. Surrounded by a surf of diamonds, the gem is engraved with fish motif and has diamond bubbles.

It takes courage and creative genius to design rings with scores of miniature mechanisms. Margarita Prykhodko, founder and creative designer of Sybarite, took the plunge and designed her first Merry-Go-Round rings in 2012. With myriad hidden elements, these one-of-a-kind rings feature a carousel of animals. This year, Prykhodko designed an ensemble of four swirling rings — Poppy, Orchid, Violet and Lily — celebrating floral inspirations. The delightful Waltz of the Flowers collection was inspired by Russian composer Tchaikovsky’s ‘Nutcracker’: each ring features a ballerina dressed in a blossom-shaped tutu, balancing daintily on a reflective sapphire glass. A tiny ladybird hides beneath the petal, while the shank rests on a coin that actually flips. There’s more: Hidden within the layout of the petals is a secret message, with each ring carrying a different message. “I worked on 689 sketches for the Poppy ring alone before arriving at the perfect shape,” explains the designer.

Creative credentials firmly intact, Bangkok-based Italian jeweller Alessio Boschi uses his impeccable skills to fashion marvellous secrets. His fascination with “secrets and surprises” prompted Boschi to design his first secret ring in 1994. “My jewel was a sphere ring with a little Jack-in-the-box on a spring,” he says. In 2013, he decided to redesign the ring, and after perfecting the mechanisms, showcased the refined Surprise Me collection at Baselworld 2015. Boschi’s newer Neptune Ring features shells that open up like bridges to unveil Poseidon horses leaping from within, the Triton Ring with two geometrical large motifs encrusted in Paraiba and diamonds hide mythological creatures, and the Flame rings have phoenixes and raging dragons.

British jeweller Glenn Spiro’s Reveal Secret Lotus rings celebrate an extraordinary centre stone. Crafted in 18k gold, when turned slowly, the stylised petals open to showcase the gem. “They are beautiful worn closed or open and are great conversation starters,” says Spiro.

Closer home, jewellery brand Kirtilals unveiled The Secret ring in 18k white gold. Petals, embellished with 293 diamonds, hide in their centre a sparkling Forevermark diamond.

Embracing the bold trend, Miami-based Italian jeweller Dionea Orcini often marries a “non-obvious approach” to “recognisable icons” in her design. Her eye-catching Marquise Orb double ring features a ‘sacred’ orb with a carved symbol, outlined by diamonds or coloured gemstones. The textured orb opens up to display a hollow space, wherein the wearer can carry her own little secret. “You can carry a small charm, a set of small healing crystals for protection, sacred seeds and beads, a small key or perhaps your own little love potion,” Orcini says.

From holding poison to memory keepers to objects of art, secret rings have evolved into bejewelled whimsical pieces. It looks like this trend is here to stay, and it’s time to discover more such precious secrets.

Smitha Sadanandanis a London-based freelance journalist and co-editor (International) of KaterinaPerez.com

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