The old city is in flux. Some people are leaving or have already left, the ornate doors of their havelis are locked up. Other families have recently moved in, migrant workers or people from other areas of Ahmedabad, the 604-year-old city which is also the fifth largest in the country.
Some dream of leaving these congested lanes of the pols — traditional housing clusters unique to the capital of Gujarat — for a more spacious life in the newer parts of the city or even elsewhere in India. Others hold on tight to their homes, in the face of adversity, cherishing the secret nooks and invisible corners that their old homes offer. The pols — there are over 360 in the old city — have their own distinct style of architecture with only one or two entrances; in some cases, tucking away a couple of secret entrances as well.
The old city of Ahmedabad was nominated for the Unesco World Heritage City status in 2011, along with Delhi and Mumbai. Caught in the red tape, the heritage tag may take a while coming. In the meanwhile, a lot of hype has been generated around the bid.
What is often overlooked though is the day-to-day life of the people who live in this heritage-city-to-be. What are their aspirations and struggles? What is their experience of living in this historically segregated city?
(Meher Ali is a freelance journalist based in Ahmedabad)