Life in slow motion: that seems to be the mood in Kochi’s Mattancherry, a Jewish neighbourhood that was once synonymous with prosperity. A melancholy air wraps the lanes around Paradesi Synagogue (1568). The community of White Jews or Paradesi Jews, who lived here for over five centuries, is now reduced to just seven members, all of them over the age of 75. These seven (five women and two men) live in near-isolation in houses with the star of David, while tourists throng the historic synagogue and the Jew Town their ancestors built.
The trading establishments of Jew Town have given way to a row of antique shops and a thriving spice market. The synagogue hasn’t seen a prayer service in years — tradition dictates a quorum of 10 male members. Even the last rabbi here was hired from Israel, the country that Kochi lost its Jewish population to.
Fluent in Malayalam, the last Jews of Mattancherry are a tad wary of the press and eager documentary filmmakers. The butcher’s shop from where they bought kosher meat is no more. The large, noisy community weddings are memories. As are the celebrations of Hanukkah, Passover, Yom Kippur, and Jewish New Year. Their days are mostly spent in prayer and looking at photo albums. Occasional phone calls from Israel and a meal with the remaining few in the community are the only highlights.
Pictures by Thulasi Kakkat