Lost shadows

Reconstructing stories with multiple narratives spanning two millennia is hard. It is best then to begin from the end, which is now. We are looking for Muziris, along the former Spice Route, on the narrow Malabar coast, with the Arabian Sea on one side and the backwaters on the other. Dense with coconut groves and tropical trees, the land is never too far from the water. We are on a speedboat that noisily splits a vast sheet of calm water into two as it cruises westward on the Periyar river.

Floating an idea

The search for the lost cosmopolitan city of Muziris has taken different forms — from excavations, museums and heritage trails to the christening of India’s first art biennale. We embark on our hunt around Kochi through the Muziris Heritage Project, a part of the UNESCO-backed Spice Route Project involving 31 countries, anchored by the Kerala Council for Historical Research.

“As of now, Muziris is an idea,” says Biju Thomas, a historian and guide. To “experience” the history of Muziris, one must depend on one’s imagination, visit several sites, and connect the dots. Broadly, the story of the Spice Route has two parts: the first is the narrative of Muziris (and the places linked to it), and the second relates to the arrival of Europeans (the markets, forts, palaces) and Kochi.

Muziris, or Cranganore (near present-day Kodungallur), was a popular port on the Spice Route, perhaps from the time of King Solomon. Romans, Greeks, Arabs, Africans, Egyptians and people from the Levant plied along the road for spices, silk and precious stones. But Muziris was lost in a flood around 1341AD, ending Part I of the narrative. Shortly after this, began Part II — the Portuguese landed in 1498AD and “rediscovered” a way to the “Indies”. Soon, the Dutch, French and English followed suit.

Not so foreign

As we turn, the river widens. On our right, we see the remnants of the Kottapuram fort, built by the Portuguese, and the local market, one of the oldest in India. A perimeter of makeshift bridges and cement walkways mark the site where excavations are conducted.

The fort vanishes as we get closer to the mouth of the estuary, and the Marthoma Church (Marthoma Research Academy) comes into view. It is believed apostle St Thomas landed in this region in 52AD to spread the gospel to the Jews. “It is not ‘whether’ he landed, but ‘where’?” says Fr Frank Jose at Marthoma, “He came along an existing sea route, and it is definite that there were Jewish and Roman colonies here even before Christ.”

Soon, along the Kollam-Kottapuram waterway, we head towards Kochi. It isn’t hard to imagine Roman ships laden with amphora jars, wine and fish sauce anchored along these waters. There must have been warehouses too, hoarding spices that would make their journey to the West. For nearly two millennia, spices were what oil is today, and we owe much of our knowledge of geography to the demand for spices.

A lost city

My understanding of geography though, is tied to Google maps here. We pass paddy fields, waterfront properties, fishing boats and Chinese fishing nets. The blue dot on the map shows we have sailed past the Pallipuram Fort, which is inland. We soon cross Pattanam, in North Paravur, the site of several small-scale excavations. A small office/museum here hosts objects dating to the first millennium AD, attesting to the presence of a vibrant city — the kind mentioned in Sangam literature and Greco-Roman documents and maps. But was this Muziris? No one’s sure.

Pattanam is a shadow of its past. There are no mighty ships or godowns, only farmlands and houses. Nearly an hour later, just as I’m getting accustomed to the incessant purr of the engine, Kochi accosts us. High-rises quickly replace paddy fields and coconut groves. Sure we haven’t found Muziris. But must we arrive at the end of all journeys?

TRAVEL LOG

Get around

You can cover all the sites of the Muziris Heritage Project in 2-3 days, including Mattancherry Synagogue; Chendamangalam and Paravur Synagogues, both museums now; Cheraman Jumma Masjid, India’s first mosque; Marthoma Research Academy, where St Thomas’ relic lies; St Francis Church, where Vasco Da Gama was first buried; 16th-century Kottapuram Fort; Paliam Nalukettu and Paliam Palace; Pattanam and Fort Kochi. Almost all of them are connected by water, but access via road is also possible. Kerala Tourism offers several packages (0471-2321132; >keralatourism.org/muziris ).

Stay

Since the Project covers 150sqkm, make Kochi your base. Bolgatty Palace, once a Dutch retreat, is a good place to stay (from ₹3,000; bolgattypalace kochi.com). There are plenty of options in Fort Kochi too.

BLink Tip

Keep your phone’s GPS on, and map the boat ride. Then explore all the places by road. Your sense of time and space will unravel in ways you didn’t know could happen.

>Click here to read the map (PDF)

( The writer was in Kochi at the invitation of Kerala Tourism. )

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