Vegetarian Bangkok would pretty much be an oxymoron. So a week of hectic culinary immersion in the city found me single-mindedly chasing Thailand’s popular non-vegetarian cuisine. Keen to give my palate something new to savour, however, I also set aside an entire day for some veg-food hunting.

The trail began at the arterial Sukhumvit road, synonymous with the Bangkok’s vibrant nightlife. Several odd- and even-numbered Sois, or streets, criss-crossed Sukhumvit, choc-a-bloc with glitzy malls, restaurants and shops. As I walked on to build an appetite, it was comforting to have the indispensable Sky Train rumbling above, reassuring me that I could make a quick dash to other parts of the city in no time.

As I intended to stick to veg options for all meals, the unassuming Tian Sin stall had to be first on my list. It opens early at 6.30 am but pulls its shutters down soon after lunch. That I was effortlessly directed through a maze of streets to the small stall tucked away in the narrow Phiphat Soi alone testifies to its popularity. Run by two sisters, Tian Sin epitomises Thailand’s pushcart-style food, though exclusively of the veg kind. A dollop of rice and more than nine curries to choose from, it was certainly a morning well spent. The no-frills open-air joint is known for imparting the most mundane crop of mushrooms, cauliflower, beans, with authentic Thai flavours. Lighter by less than a hundred baht, I was off to my next stop, Khao San.

Just as I was about to hop into a tuk-tuk, a bright-yellow board proclaiming ‘Jae’ food drew me towards Ama’s kitchen — a cosy four-table eatery at which the Chinese all-veg Jae cuisine is served with an extra dash of love by its owner ‘Ama’. Economical combos, convenient location (just off Silom road) and consistently good food ensure she trumps all competition along this road. Despite the language barrier, I felt immediately at home and sampled a speedy snack of fritters.

Khao San is decidedly the liveliest part of the city, and backpacker central. The place is marked by cheap stay options, tattoo parlours, shops with heaps of clothes and, of course, a variety of restaurants and local food-stalls. I burned a few calories roaming these streets before making my way to two of the most recommended restaurants at Samsen Soi, a short distance from Khao San. The redbrick wall with Indian-themed paintings at Tham Na caught my eye first. Only after I had taken in the soothing ambience did I order from the delicious organic vegetarian Italian-Thai fusion menu. After scraping out every bit of Tham Na’s heavenly papaya salad from the bowl, I walked down to the cheery May Kaidee restaurant a few doors away.

The friendly manager there was more than happy to tell me all about this widely popular restaurant. Soon to go international, May Kaidee has a heartening array of veg and vegan food, as also the inspiring story of May, who started out running a street stall years ago. International travellers not only swear by the dining experience, many of them also stay back long enough to take up May’s Thai cooking classes. A perfect lunch and even better conversation later, I was more ‘veg-aware’ than ever and could not wait to head out to Issaya, recommended by a fellow veg-hunter.

White chairs set on a freshly mowed green lawn greeted me outside an old Bangkok Villa, a rarity in the rapidly expanding city. Inside was a world of artistic furniture and colourful furnishings. With this atmospheric setting and Chef Ian’s signature Thai cuisine, Issaya was just what I had imagined it to be. The restaurant stands out for its use of traditional ingredients, progressive cooking methods and elegant food presentations. I was determined to return here for a more comprehensive meal — it deserved a full evening.

But I had saved the best for the last, so dinner was back at Sukhumvit Soi 1, the boutique restaurant of Ariyasomvilla, Na Aroon. Ariyasomvilla is also a refurbished Bangkok villa dating back to 1941. Na Aroon, the in-house restaurant, promises a soothing ambience and the choice of poolside or indoor seating. The oriental-themed restaurant dishes out hearty vegetarian fare prepared largely from organic produce. After a light Mee Grob (a sweet, sour and crispy noodle dish) and an apple crumble to end the meal, it was time to head back. Walking down Sukhumvit, I couldn’t help but grab one of the on-the-go cut-fruit bags — a perfect accomplice to a stroll down Bangkok's busy warren of streets.

Eatinerary

Tian Sin , Phiphat Soi 2, Bangkok, +66 0869841621, 6.30am to 1.30pm

Ama , Silom Street, Bangkok, 10500, +660897890889, Monday-Friday 9.30am to 5pm, closed on weekends

Tham Na , 175 Samsen Road, (Between Samsen 3 and 5), Bangkok 10200, +66022824979, >facebook.com/ThamnabyChefyim , Monday-Saturday 11am to 3pm, 5pm to 9pm, closed on Sundays

May Kaidee , 33 Samsen Road, Soi 2, Banglamphu, Bangkok 10200, +660891373173, 026294413, >maykaidee.com , 9am to 10pm

Issaya ,4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chua Ploeng Road, Thung Muahmek, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120,+66026729040-1, issaya.com, @issaya.com, 11am to 3.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm

Na Aroon , Ariyasomvilla Co Ltd, 65, Sukhumvit Soi 1, Sukhumvit Road, Klongtoey-Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, +66 022548880, 022538800, ariyasom.com, davidlees@ariyasom.com, 6.30am to 10.30pm

(Supriya is a Bangalore-based writer)

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