Handsome heritage monuments, prehistoric architecture, ravages of the World Wars and the blistering memory of discomfiting Left politics are a silent backdrop to the quaint charm of Slavonic Europe. Yes, there was the Iron Curtain, the Velvet Revolution, the history of many ugly battles and the savagery of the Nazi past. But when I weigh these against the architecture, quaint imprints of art and the high charm quotient, the tourist in me is quite tempted.

I start my tour at Krakow, southern Poland’s old capital and one of Europe’s ancient cities. Dotted with Unesco World Heritage monuments and sites, this most historical of cities invokes an air of pleasant awe. For the tourist, Krakow’s must-visit sites include the city centre, the delightful market square, the Wawel or hill area dating back to the Paleolithic times, the royal palace, Kazimierz, its historical Jewish district, and Stradom, another old neighbourhood. They don’t call it the Polish Mecca for nothing. And yes, if you are the kind who likes to soak in the charms a city has to offer, just getting lost among the streets, parks and castles is equally pleasant.

Krakow’s quaint way of marking its addresses has a pretty rose in stone at the entrance to my hotel, Pod Roza (meaning ‘under the rose’). The hotel has a great ambience and classical look, as do many others in the city.

Away from the opulent palaces, my personal favourite in Krakow is the old Jewish district of Kazimierz, replete with old-world synagogues and wayside cafes, festive with numerous tourists. The unusual 13th-century underground Wieliczka Salt Mines takes my breath away. It is filled with statues of rock salt sculpted by miners to tell stories from folklore, religion and mythology. A trip and skip away is the active St Kinga Chapel with its four storeys, numerous bas-reliefs, crystal chandeliers and the newly-added statue of Pope John Paul II. The other attraction here is a ballroom with wi-fi hotspots.

It’s impossible to escape the sombre Schindler’s Factory (made famous by the film Schindler’s List ), now a modern museum reflecting the history of pre-war Krakow, its five years of Nazi domination, the resistance movement, followed by Soviet occupation.

Crossing over to the City of a Thousand Spires, Prague, is like stepping into a picturesque book of fairy tales. There is so much to see and learn from this one-time capital of Bohemia, with its 1,100-year-old history and its rich confluence of cultures. What is remarkable is that a significant number of its renowned cultural attractions survived the violent history of 20th-century Europe.

The charms of Czech anachronism greet you on a ride in a modern lift to the top of the Old Town Hall Tower for stunning views of the city, its square and its churches — the Tyn and St Nicholas Churches are particularly striking. If you are lucky, you can hear the trumpeter blow the hour.

The past and the present meet yet again on a Segway bike ride across the city’s many historical attractions. It is fun tumbling around the imposing Prague Castle — the largest in the world, according to the Guinness Book of World Records , the buzzing Town Square with its famous astronomical clock, the calendarium and the Jewish quarter. I stop at the legendary Lennon Wall, joining scores of tourists in scribbling a message on it.

Bringing the trip across three cities to an end is Budapest — the land of Strauss whose operatic music complements the sheer beauty and majesty of the Danube skirting the city like an azure ribbon. Traffic blocks in Budapest briefly take me back to Bengaluru, my hometown, but the comparison fades away the moment I spot the Danube. I feast on heart-stopping views of the river from the window of my hotel room.

Standing on the Chain Bridge to watch the merry dance of the twinkling lights on the dark waters makes for a romantic Bollywood vignette. And when cruising down the river on a boat, I feel I am a part of the waltz Blue Danube , playing in a loop in my head. Buda, on the west bank, and Pest on the east were unified in 1873, but it seems they were never apart.

Budapest, like many of its European siblings, is an architectural treasure trove. Think indolent Turkish baths, chapels, basilicas, castles, splendid riverfronts, promenades and parks… A walk down Andrassy Avenue to the Heroes’ Square makes you feel like you could be in Paris. Even if you can’t catch a performance, don’t miss a quick look at the Budapest Opera House for its neo-Renaissance architecture. A tour of the Parliament is a good choice, so is the walk up to the Castle Hill for its views of the Danube.

Travel log

Get there

Krakow: Air India, Lufthansa, Jet Airways, Emirates, Qatar Airways, Etihad and British Airways have flights to John Paul II International Airport, with one stopover. Prague: Except British Airways, all carriers flying to Krakow also go to Prague. Budapest: Qatar, Emirates, Etihad, Lufthansa, British Airways and Jet Airways fly here with one stopover.

Stay

Krakow: Hotel Pod Roza, 14, Florianska Street, is less than 200m from the main square. Prague: Intercontinental Prague is located on the most famous shopping boulevard of Parizska, and is a comfortable distance from the historical Old Town Square. Budapest: Intercontinental Budapest, Apaczai Csere JU, located close to the city’s top attractions, has the most breathtaking view of the Danube river.

BL ink Tip

Czech beer is one of the best in Europe. Don’t miss a pint even if you’re not fond of lager. And the streets of Prague are peppered with hot dog vendors. Must try!

Melanie P Kumar is a Bengaluru-based writer

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