Passion by the glass

You have to wonder how the French have stayed true to their winemaking legacies. It’s a profession that requires patience. Yet, the pursuit of profit hasn’t dampened the passion many winemakers, like 41-year old Pierre Courdurie, have for tradition.

Courdurie has his own vineyard, Chateau Patache d’Aux, but has also been marketing wines for 15 years. He works in Bordeaux (the highest wine-producing region in France), and helps promote wines from the Chateau De Fontenille in 35 countries and to 10,000 customers worldwide. Located near the Abbey of La Sauve Majeure, the chateau’s founders were the wealthy Cadouin family who moved here in 1524. But vineyards existed since the 5th century. In India, Fontenille is distributed by Aspri Spirits.

I ask Courdurie what keeps him going in a profession without many guarantees. He likens it to the anticipation people may feel about a baby. Something about the new, not knowing what to expect every year, is exciting as well as challenging. “But fundamentally, it’s about sharing passion,” he says.

“Wine is part of a culture. We grow with it. It was part of French history, even before the Romans. Even when we look at the future, we need to remember who was here before us, and who will be here after us. It’s similar to India in that sense,” says Courdurie, drawing a link between two distinct cultures.

Over a glass of Rouge AOC Bordeaux, I’m told how the chateau ensures fruitiness in its reds, allowing the macerated wine to sits in a barrel for 18 months before rotating between tank and barrel every six months. When we switch to Entre Deux Mers Blanc, a white that’s fresh on the palette, its gold hue a testament to its high ‘minerality’, he says, “It’s the terroir that makes the difference — this is gravel and limestone combining to produce citrus notes. Earlier, people believed in the oak influence. I’m not a fan of oak-aging for whites; they have to have finesse. That’s how they go best with seafood or salads.” As our impassioned talk of terroir winds down, Courdurie leaves me with a final French flourish, “Love is passion, finesse, elegance, just as our wines are!”

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