Paalada pradhaman, a kheer-like pudding usually served at traditional Kerala feasts, owes it to ‘Vinayaka’ Anantharaman for its popularity. A little hard to prepare, the sweet dish is a favourite of most Keralites on special occasions.

“If it is Paalada, it should be from Vinayaka.” This ought to have been the tagline of the product made by M Anantharaman’s catering company.

A man of taste

Anantharaman, who started out as a lowly assistant to a traditional cook of feasts, died here on Monday night. By the time he left at age 58, Anantharaman’s Vinayaka group had diversified beyond catering — to exporting ready-to-eat sambar, paayasam, kaalan and a lot of other Kerala dishes whose shelf life lasted months; and even to real estate.

But, essentially he was a man of taste — taste of the tongue as well as of the changing times.

“He was a pioneering catering entrepreneur,” said PM Shankaran, president of the Bakers Association of Kerala (Bake). From being a helper to a cook, Anantharaman became a master cook and then a catering entrepreneur. He took orders for cooking for large feasts of 1,000-plus guests at weddings. Later the orders came to his Vinayaka Foods and Beverages.

“In the past, the cook’s was one of the least glamorous jobs in Kerala,” Shankaran recalled. “But, when Anantharaman became a master cook, the perception changed.”

His hard work, business acumen and the capacity to foresee changes in lifestyles and eating habits were the factors behind the resounding success of Vinayaka. He also embraced modern technology and installed the latest machines in his central kitchens. Modern food technology and food security standards helped his business to grow.

Packaged feast

One of his innovations was the packaged ‘Onassadya’ (special feast, which often has two dozen dishes, during the Onam festival) which was delivered to homes, parties and hotels. The order for the Onassadya closes days before the festival as the order mounts to lakhs.

Another innovation was the ready-to-eat ethnic Kerala cuisine for non-resident Keralites. He knew there was a market out there in the Gulf and the US of nostalgic Malayalis yearning for ethnic Kerala food.

“We bakers owe him a lot for helping the food industry to stand on its legs,” Shankaran said. “He was a master cook and a master caterer.”

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