This is the first time I've encountered a lotus stem wrapped dim sum. The texture and feel of the dish was exotic - the silky smooth rice flour wrapped around a perfectly cooked prawn and flavours that lingered long after they had worn off my tastebuds. At Hakkasan, Mumbai's newest Chinese fine-dining restaurant serving Cantonese cuisine, the food seems to be crafted with passion. Hakkasan was first opened in the UK in 2001 and quickly earned a Michelin star for its food and exquisite ambience. Will its Mumbai property replicate the success story?

At first sight

With 6,600 square feet of space, this would easily be one of Mumbai's largest restaurants. Every nuance of the restaurant has been carefully created to please the guest. From the elevator to the dining area, one is met with subtle lighting and delicate aromas. The smallest details have been taken care of by an international team of designers from the Paris-based architectural firm, Gilles & Boissier. Starting from the wood panels to the fish scale design, you can see traditional designs strongly emerging though with a very contemporary feel.

The restaurant is divided into four sections. The Ling Ling lounge is open for lunch and is elegantly designed in Chinoiserie style. The long, luxurious bar area is thoughtfully laid out, and the drinks and cocktails menu very innovative. Along the entrance wall is a creatively designed whisky display. The main dining area is open only for dinner and the restaurant wisely has a ‘no kids' policy for its second seating after 9 pm, which will be a welcome break for serious diners. There is also a separate dining area for business meetings. The hostesses clad in pink designer cheongsams further add to the spirit of the restaurant.

Gastronomic experience

However, it is the presence of expert chefs like master Dim sum maker Chef Soon and Executive Chef Kent Lee and their six specialists that makes the dining experience here a memorable one. A lot of the ingredients designed into the menu are of local origin and a few are international. This has been done to keep the flavours intact; in order to ensure there are fewer ‘air carbon miles' involved in what one is eating. Eating with chopsticks is the only way through a Chinese meal. Plus, it's a useful skill to pick up, and I would recommend it to better any Chinese food experience. One of Hakkasan's specialities is the crispy duck served with slices of mango. The taste and textures are inexplicably delicious, with the interesting blend of crisp duck, the flavours of soy and the softness of mango.

One needs to be adventurous to try the pork belly served upon leeks and cucumber. At Hakkasan, it is evident that the deftness of the slicing and portioning is a master's craft. The chicken was great too, with hints of cinnamon, and other dishes to try out are the silver cod with caviar, or Peking duck which is not only expensive but has to be ordered in advance. Hakkasan has a wide range of options for vegetarians too like stir fried lotus stems, asparagus and a host of exotic vegetables in varied combinations.

With an exhaustive list of 125 wines and an enviable whisky menu, almost every ‘spirited' whim is catered to at its extensive bar. Drinks like the Ketel (a delicious combination of vodka, sake, coconut and lychee), a pink Mojito made of gold tequila and the Chinese mule are some of the cocktails one must try out.

The meal is worth every bit of its high price tag and the experience, a gastronomic delight.

What: Hakkasan Mumbai

Where: Krystal, Waterfield Road, Bandra, Mumbai

Cuisine: Cantonese

How much: Rs 4,000 for a meal for two without liquor

(The author is a Cordon Bleu chef and food stylist)

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