In the lap of nature

The Tamara, a 170-acre resort in Coorg, is surrounded by nature in all its wonder - so much so that the resort looks like it has sprung up in the middle of a forest. The odd birdcall, the gurgle of a waterfall outside the reception, and the receptionists’ soft voices break the silence that envelopes this place. The narrow path to my cottage is flanked by the rock face of a hill on one side, and wooden cottages that seem to float amidst the trees on the other. I peer down — the cottages are supported by solid metal stilts that go down for about several feet. “This is why children below 12 are not allowed on this resort,” Catherine, the hospitality-in-charge, explains.

Wood is the choice of building material at this place. High, sloping roofs look down on a split-level room. Behind the bed is a wooden wall that hides the closets and bathroom. French windows lead to the balcony, beyond which miles of lush greenery stretch out. An abundance of coffee plants dot the property.

Served with a view

Built atop a metal bridge, the restaurant’s best feature is the open verandahs on both sides, affording spectacular views. One side has been converted into a sit-out with lounge chairs and deck lights. At the centre of the restaurant is a large square of tough, clear glass — the dance floor. Look down, and see yourself suspended several feet above a stream and fern-covered rocks! I try to walk on the glass, but chicken out after a few seconds and run back to the comfort of solid wood floors.

Over grilled chicken sandwiches, I chat with Muthu, the restaurant-in-charge who says the resort maintains an organic garden, where some spices like mint are grown, but it is not big enough to supply the produce needed for the kitchen. The menu features Indian, Chinese, Western and Coorgi food. The vegetables and meat are procured from Mysore; sometimes, this means that guests can’t get everything listed on the menu.

At dinner, there is a selection of grilled prawns, cheese balls, and wantons to start the meal. For main course, I get to sample Coorgi cuisine — papputtu (steamed rice cake garnished with grated coconut), and fish curry. The curry has a strong touch of coconut and an underlying tangy taste from kokum. Desserts are aplenty — a chocolate cake with hints of plum, a kiwi-and-cream dessert, and apple pie. The bar adjoining the restaurant is built in the style of a classic cigar room. Muthu mixes me a cocktail of white rum and coke.

Night time in the forest can be a scary sight — the thick vegetation now looks like a sorcerer’s lair, and the sounds of insects make me walk a lot faster to my room. Especially after a fellow guest mentions that leeches might be out after the short burst of rain that afternoon.

Nature trails

After breakfasting on dosas and fresh coconut chutney the next morning, I head for a walk with Lokesh, a Coorgi and former army man, who now serves as the resort’s naturalist. He says trekking is extremely popular among guests, especially foreigners — there are three trails, of 9km, 13km and 14km, the last of which goes up a mountain. Quickly declining his invitation for a trek, I settle for a little tour around the property instead.

Along the way, Lokesh points to a cluster of pepper growing on a vine around a tree, a cardamom plant, a rosewood tree. He often pauses in the midst of our conversation to listen to a chirp or whistle, or points to a splash of colour on a branch, and tells me what bird it is — a malabar whistling thrush, or great black woodpecker. Coorg is home to about 300 species of birds, of which 160 have been spotted at The Tamara.

If the feathered lot continue to make their home in and around this resort, that is because efforts have been made to retain the character and natural landscape of the plantation. Large parts of the virgin forest were left untouched, and construction was planned to work around the streams and hills, rather than the other way around.

Several little spaces of tranquillity in between have been put to good use, such as the yoga centre — a wooden platform that supports about 10 to 15 people, built near a gurgling stream, where guests can join the resort’s yoga instructor for a lesson in the lap of nature. The pepper and coffee trails stand as reminders of the variety of flora that yield much of what lands up on our plates.

Towards the end of our tour, Lokesh leads me to the 100-plus year-old ‘palace’ of the family that used to own the plantation, which is being refurbished to serve as the upcoming spa. The ‘palace’ is more of a stately bungalow, with touches of Kerala-style architecture. Outside the bungalow is a large courtyard where huge canvas sheets are laid out to hold the brown coffee berries that are left to dry in the sun — my cue to head to The Verandah for my ‘coffee experience’.

Fit for a barista

The Verandah, a long, low-ceilinged structure, was formerly the residence of estate labourers. Now, the place is divided into smaller sections — a gift shop, reading room, bar-style café, and at the heart of it all, a space that features a mini coffee roaster, grinder, and bags with different varieties of raw coffee beans. I make my own blend from the varieties of arabica, robusta and peaberry on offer, and am told to mix in some robusta beans to the Arabica for a stronger taste.

After an intricate and elaborate process of popping and roasting, the delicious smell of fresh coffee fills the air as the powder is collected and sealed inside a plastic bag.

As I return home, there is a small twinge of regret – it was too short a stay. But then, such a charming resort in the magical ambience of Coorg would leave most appetites unsatiated.

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