White-washed walls that speak of Mediterranean influences, panels of coloured glass, immaculate white tablecloths and well-laid out tables – Vetro is steeped in Oberoi's classic style, yet exudes its own, distinctive ambience. The latest addition in the new wing of The Oberoi, Mumbai, Vetro is a fine dining setup offering a traditional Italian experience with a gracious modern twist.

First look

As I walk across the Italian marble floor, the well-turned out staff greet visitors in crisp white uniforms that are reminiscent of restaurants in Europe. On my left is the ‘Enoteca' (wine library), where 1,200 wine bottles from Piedmont to Fruilli, Toscana and Venetto, are encased in a glass panel. The library also permits guests to sample wines and make a selection for their meal.

There is a fine bar at one end, and the other houses an antipasti section where you can choose a combination of starters from smoked salmon, salads, cheeses, olives and a selection of breads. Bottles of marinades and pickles line the shelves and add to the Italian décor.

The menu

The menu transports me to the quaint regions of Italy, where each locale's cuisine is highlighted. The options are wide and tempting, ranging from pastas, to fish, to meats like duck, chicken, ham, and delicate sauces with hints of saffron and chilli, among many others. À la carte dishes range from Rs 400 for regular Italian fare to Rs 2,000 for exotic preparations like lobster and duck. The Mediterranean selection is at its best with a neat menu by Chef Vincenzo di Tuoro. Vetro is best enjoyed at a relaxed lunch; dinner would require prior reservations.

On my plate

I began the meal with crisp loaves of bread over drizzled with olive oil and vinegar from elegant bottles placed on the table. I also tried the eggplant dip which had a fine hint of chilli. To start off the mains, I ordered the Parmigiana, a classic Italian dish. It is a simple and wholesome dish, consisting of layers of eggplant steak, tomato and mozzarella cheese, baked and topped with basil foam. Savouring it, I could taste the contrasting sharp and sweet flavours, which were balanced by the firmness of cheese. Basil flavoured oil, tomato and cheese sauces were garnishes on the plate. The flavours were light, not too strong, and beautifully enhanced the dish.

Fine dining is all about technique, and cooking scallops is an art that not many restaurants can master. The pan-seared scallops with goats cheese and chilli mayonnaise were cooked just right. The cheese crouton and beetroot salad was an interesting combination. The same went for the pan-seared Red Snapper. Both the shellfish and the fish were cooked to perfection.

Many Italian dishes use a reduction of balsamic vinegar, wine and sugar, brought to a syrupy consistency. The drizzle on my plate is the perfect concoction, balancing the essence of the dish.

Every good Italian restaurant should be able to make good pasta. The tri-coloured red, green and white ravioli was stuffed with sautéed mushroom and garnished with a strand of fried pasta. The dish is made for drama, as hot flavoursome consommé (stock) was poured over it.

Another innovative dish that took my fancy was pasta made with squid ink cooked in a consommé and topped with mussels. It was served with a trio of sauce made with capsicum and had an interesting combination of flavours.

The crêpes stuffed with porcini mushrooms were delicious too. However, the couscous cake at the base had an almost squishy consistency, and wasn't to my liking.

The one dish that truly captures the soul of Italian desserts is the Tiramisu. If done well, it is truly delectable, with the egg custard, mascarpone cheese and sugar blended to perfection. It's then set over a layer of biscuit that has been soaked in coffee liqueur and coated with a mist of cocoa powder. As each flavour, from bitter to sweet, permeates through the layers, it can often transport one to a level of ‘gourmandic' ecstasy. Vetro serves its Tiramisu with a dollop of in-house ice-cream and sorbet made of passion fruit and vanilla.

Seated at the Chef's Table I was given the honour of a sample menu and the Chef's complete attention. The table was in front of a huge glass wall where I could watch the chefs at work before the dishes landed on my plate.

Attention to detail, plated food presentation and the flavours work in Vetro's favour, making it an Italian restaurant of substance.

Where: Vetro, The Oberoi, Nariman Point, Mumbai

Prices: Fixed meal for lunch Rs 1,500 per person; À la carte approximately Rs 3,000 per person

(The author is a Cordon Bleu Cheffood stylistwriter)

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