Sheer fashion hits the ramp

You can’t have fashion in Mumbai without a Bollywood touch, and of course, there was a huge turnout of stars showing support for their favourite designers. Bollywood favourite Manish Malhotra won the award for the most support from tinsel town, with a whole host of actors, directors and even singers walking the ramp for him. And in a perfect tribute, his collection was inspired by a hundred years of Bollywood. A perfectly ‘scripted’ show, if there ever was one.

The highlight of the week was undoubtedly international couturier Naeem Khan’s debut on an Indian ramp. Khan, whose creations have been worn by the biggest of names from Michelle Obama to Stacy Keibler, is a regularly heard name on the red carpet but this was a homecoming of sorts for the Indian origin designer. ‘Elegance’ was the word to describe his collection as intricately embroidered dresses with simple silhouettes were paraded down the runway. With fabrics from sheer to velvet and collars and capes, the collection was certainly the toast of the evening.

Another Bollywood favourite who debuted at fashion week is designer Shehla Khan whose creations have graced a few red carpets but hit the ramp for the first time this year. Called ‘Boudoir’, her collection went straight for dreamy and sensuous with a lot of lace and sheer. Flowy silhouettes, metal and nude embellishments and soft materials were the key to her collection with a very pale colour palette that went from nude to cream and pastels.

Designer Krishna Mehta cashed in on the season’s trend of black and white with a collection of predominantly these two colours in a variety of prints. Mixing and matching a whole range of prints from tie and dye, block prints and Shibori dyeing, the collection had plenty of stoles and scarves accessorising tunics, dhoti pants, kurtas and more. While more colour came later, the prints continued to dominate, and the irreverent pairing was extremely in.

Making a statement with a show is nothing new for designer Narendra Kumar and he was right on the money this time as well, sending the “Thought police” down the runway to stand around it, even blocking the view of his collection. Well played, we must admit. The collection was tailored to perfection with fitted jackets and cropped pants for the ladies and cotton jackets and bright linen for the men standing out. While the clothes were exceptional, the presentation really got people talking.

Nishka Lulla brought the focus back on the high waist and sheer everythings this season as her collection – called “Boho-Chic Traveller” – focussed on some relaxed pieces in shades of beige, brown, white and nude, with the occasional infusion of indigo blue. While the clothes seemed extremely easy to wear and high on comfort, it was her sheer, deconstructed dresses and overcoats that really seemed to win it for her. Travel seemed to inspire a lot of fashion this season – design duo Shantanu and Nikhil too named their collection after their source of inspiration, “The Tourist”. The collection was easy on the eyes with pastel shades and earthy tones making up the majority, adding to the structured clothes with straight, clean lines. The look seemed mostly androgynous with structured cuts and light materials keeping the season in mind.

As Mumbai watched, with Bollywood in tow, new trends were set and old rules were redefined at the Lakme Fashion Week, setting the trends for the rest of season. Now take your pick!

elizabeth.mathew@thehindu.co.in

COMMENT NOW