Ever wondered what makes the smell of freshly baked cookies so inviting? How about that slightly-sweet yet ever-so-deep note of certain perfumes? We're drawn to these smells because of one wonderful element. Vanilla. And the whole world is going gaga over this unassuming spice. Granted, vanilla does not score high in the looks department when compared to spices like the pretty pink pepper and star anise, and the term vanilla has been used over the years to describe all things bland and boring, but the brown pod packs in a lot of flavour and provides a certain intriguing depth to dishes. It's time to shine the spotlight on vanilla.

Peek into the past

The history of vanilla cultivation goes back many centuries and stems from ancient myths and legends. Historians place the Totonac tribe from the Gulf coast of Mexico as the first producers of the spice, who used it in their rituals and customs. When the Aztecs invaded the area in the fifteenth century, they brought the plant to Central Mexico and used it in their chocolate preparations. From here, the Spanish travellers and traders of the seventeenth century carried vanilla to Europe but Mexico remained the sole producer of the crop until the mid-nineteenth century. This was when French settlers and traders shipped the plant to the islands of Mauritius and Réunion, onwards on to Madagascar. After the discovery of the hand pollination method, the plant thrived in these tropical conditions and became one of the most sought after spices in the world. Madagascar now produces the majority of vanilla available, with Indonesia, India, Tahiti and Mexico following suit. In India, vanilla is cultivated in Kerala and Karnataka.

The real deal

The next time you order a scoop of vanilla ice cream, take a closer look. If you spot tiny, black specks in the ice cream, you're in luck! Those flecks are the seeds of the vanilla pod, which are proof that your ice cream has been flavoured using natural vanilla. Vanilla is an orchid vine that grows only in tropical regions, and the yellow flower, when pollinated by hand by the farmer produces a green pod which is then put through a process of harvesting, drying and curing. The end result is the brownish-black pod we see in gourmet food stores. This pod contains the seeds coated in vanillin and other natural chemicals which give vanilla its distinctive flavour.

To create an extract of vanilla, a number of methods are employed but due to demand exceeding supply, production of synthetic vanilla grew in many countries. Synthetic vanilla relies heavily on vanillin alone for flavour, which can be sourced from plants other than vanilla. So make sure you check your bottle of extract or essence for its ingredients. Real vanilla extract may cost more than the synthetic product, but the flavour from the former will make up for it! Also keep in mind that vanilla plants are heavily treated with pesticides as they are extremely susceptible to fungal and viral attack, so try your best to pick up organic vanilla, which is treated only with neem and natural compost. Graded by length and appearance, the pods from Madagascar, called Bourbon vanilla, are the most expensive and luxurious.

Spice it up!

Vanilla is the second most expensive spice in the world, after saffron. It is the labour-intensive and lengthy process of production, as well as the need for perfect growing conditions that makes this spice so valuable. The plant is almost pampered by the farmers who follow its growth and harvest very closely. No wonder vanilla pods are considered a luxury.

On its own, it is quite hard to pin down the flavour of vanilla to a single element. It is sweet yet slightly oily, a heavy fragrance that tends to linger in the air when used in cakes and other desserts. It is also more of a background flavour, adding depth to a dish rather than showcasing its own complexity. And this is why chefs today are experimenting with using vanilla in savoury cooking. The sweetness of the vanilla bean does not overpower the spices in the dish, but enhances their qualities. So why not try your hand at infusing a basic cream sauce with vanilla to add to your angel-hair pasta or roasting duck breast with lavender sprigs and vanilla? This versatile spice pairs well with pork and seafood as well, so you can simply sear a few scallops in a pan and drizzle on a vanilla and parsley flavoured oil or fry up some crab cakes with a dip of organic mayonnaise, vanilla and capers. Vegetarians need not fear as vanilla can be used in creating delicious risotto with asparagus stems and shallots or taking the simple avocado, buffalo mozzarella and heirloom tomato salad to a higher culinary level.

The price of vanilla fluctuates with the season and economic conditions but the value of the spice in gastronomy does not change.

archana.a@thehindu.co.in

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