Of kings and feasts

Mad dogs and Englishmen...they are the ones reputably brave enough to venture out in the heat of an Indian afternoon. But when a royal welcome begins with a red convertible sedan waiting at the airport, even a sun shirker like me cannot resist the invitation. So there I was at noon, braving the wind and dust of Udaipur’s roads as the trusty old car wheezed its way along. Inviting stares too, of which there were many; some showing amazement, others amused, while some were, well, just stares!

I stared too, as the old faithful steamed to a stop at the Fateh Prakash Hotel and I swung open the door to my suite. Luxurious in itself, the view the suite offered of the rippling waters of the Lake Pichola with the Lake Palace floating like a pearl on it, was a treat for city tired eyes indeed.

Hued with nostalgia Come eventide, the golf buggy that ferries residents up and down the age-old steep slopes connecting he super luxe Fateh Prakash Palace Hotel to the palace grounds, drove me up to Manek Chowk. The Chowk has a colourful personality, and an ability to adapt itself to the mood of the occasion. It has had rows of chairs to seat an awe-struck audience as they watched a beauty pageant unfurl its gauzy wings on the jharokas of the city palace, or listened enraptured to a virtuoso performance of music. I have seen it turn into a theatre of romance, at the Princess Padmaja Kumari’s wedding, when her bridegroom entered the palace grounds on an elephant to be greeted ceremoniously by the family of his bride-to-be. Oh yes, the chowk is a veritable receptacle of history, from the past to the present. But mostly, by day, the rectangle outside the City Palace is a hot, open air space cluttered with tourists. They wait around after their tour of the palace, taking photographs, or wander through the line of stores creating the bustle typical of much visited tourist spots.

None of that was in evidence that evening. Instead, the place was glimmering with fairy lights that twinkled through the bushes and hung from the palace walls in long streamers. Musicians played classical ragas, the sitar and flute scenting the air, and four round damask covered tables carried their burden of wine glasses and cutlery with aplomb.

It was a setting fit for royalty, and royalty graced every table. Playing the perfect host at the soirée that was organised by Atout France as a prelude to the Good France culinary event that is annually conducted across the world in March, Custodian of Mewar, Shreeji Arvind Singh Mewar, along with his wife Vijyayraj Mewar; daughter, Padmaja Kumari Parmar and daughter-in-law, Nivritti Kumari Mewar ensured that Rajasthan’s reputation for hospitality was impeccably maintained.

France descended on the evening, to create a unique cocktail for the senses with a bouquet of food and wine that had a heady twist. Chef Eric Geoffroy who had flown in from the Champagne region for the occasion curated a menu that could easily be termed as creative with a twist of whimsy.

Culinary art So there were surprises bursting on the tongue and teasing the palate... as wines handpicked for the evening by wine connoisseur Vishal Kadakia and highly rated champagnes paired up with culinary art. Read that as lentils crushed to form a ball with matcha powder and a beetroot and pepper sorbet as a starter, paired with Saint Cosme Côtes du Rhone; or A trilogy of scallops paired with Christian Moreau Chablis Père et Fils. The main course presented seasonal burned vegetables and three purees, bay leaves and milk sauce that combined its flavours with Saint Cosme Côtes du Rhone; with a choice of chicken breast nappé for the carnivores paired with Christian Moreau Chablis Père et Fils. But the scene-stealers of the evening were the pre-dinner ice breaker Laurent Perrier Brut Magnum Champagne that set the palate aflame and the dessert that presented a steamed egg with old vinegar cocoa powder and ratafia jelly on a cocoa crumble bed that was twined with Laurent Perrier Brut Rosé. The colour adding to the rosy tint of the evening.

When the music died down and conversation gave way to happy satiety, the night held its breath. Not wanting the enchantment to end, it lingered hiding in the soft mists that hovered over the lawn. But when night comes, can sleep be far behind. And so I climb the buggy and return to my room. Where I retire into luxury’s soft embrace to sleep, perchance to dream!

Sathya Saran is a journalist and editor based in Mumbai

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