In the bylanes of Old Delhi near the Red Fort, close to Subhash Park, second-generation gemstone sellers peddle their wares on the streets. Multi-hued stones spread out on waterproof gunny bags are available to customers for as little as ₹25 to thousands of rupees, depending on each stone’s clarity and ratti (weight). They include the coveted precious and semi-precious gems such as sapphire, amethyst, topaz, turquoise, garnets and hessonites, to more ordinary ones. The stones are in demand thanks to their supposed astrological powers. People of different faiths flock to the market in search of a piece of rock with the power to bring them luck, health, happiness and prosperity.

Chandni Chowk’s serpentine streets usually specialise in one particular item — the Kinari Bazaar in ‘borders’ for sarees and other clothing, the Dariba Kalan in silver jewellery, the bangle market near Ballimaran, and many more. The roads around Subhash Park have been given over to wholesale dealers in gemstones. Many of them are today worried about the Chinese plastic imitations flooding the market, which are confusing buyer and seller alike.

Many jewellery stores procure their gemstones from this market. The sellers usually keep a weighing scale handy to measure a gemstone’s weight, or ratti, which is directly linked to its value.

Photos: Kamal Narang

Photo: Kamal Narang

Treasure trove: Gems are stored in chests, and displayed in separate heaps when it comes to Chandni Chowk’s unique gemstone hub

Gold shower: A man inspects his shipment of topaz. Chandni Chowk is a hub for gemstone dealers, who source them from bigger markets such as Jaipur

Photo: Kamal Narang

Faith healers: Some dealers sell rings made of copper and iron, which are touted to possess natural healing properties

Photo: Kamal Narang

Study the lines: A palmist doubles as a gemstone seller

Men of the street: Most gemstone dealers squat on the pavements in Old Delhi, a place they’ve operated out of for two generations

Published on July 28, 2017