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Their tired eyes, fragile body, and worn-out clothes hardly deter them from weaving magic on clothes. Their nimble fingers gently toss the katla (thread shuttle) left to right, and their legs move the paddle of the traditional wooden loom downward to weave the himroo motifs on silk base. The captivating motifs begin to appear on the surface of brilliant blue, black, orange, yellow and ochre.
A senior himroo artist with his traditional skill and imagination can instil life onto a cloth surface. Trees, flowers, creepers, flower vases, geometric shapes, animals, birds, motifs from temples and mosques, and paintings from the walls of Ajanta caves are recreated with unbelievable accuracy. Genuine himroo artisans in the historic Aurangabad city struggle to continue the himroo tradition. It is believed himroo craft has an ancient origin, dating to 12th century AD.
PURE SILK
Traditionally, himroo cloth was given as a gift in different social and cultural functions. In the olden days, kings and nobles of Aurangabad patronised himroo artisans, who used to make turbans, sherwanis and royal dresses. Fine threads of gold and silver on pure silk base gave the impression that the royal dress was completely made of gold. Those days, himroo artisans had a special status in society.The wheel has come full circle for them. Today, genuine himroo craft is fast disappearing from the market. High cost of silk and silver, mass production of artificial himroo craft in powerlooms, superfluous approach to promote himroo tradition, want of marketing access for genuine himroo artisans, and poverty among artisans have affected himroo's prospects. Genuine himroo craft is still in demand in domestic and international craft bazaars. “Between 2006 and 2010, I had exported himroo bed covers to Japan,” says Imran Ahmed Qureshi, a himroo craft trader. “Recession and natural calamity in Japan had stopped export.”
EXPORT TO EUROPE
Craft traders from Mumbai, Delhi and Bangalore collect exclusive himroo craft from Aurangabad for export to European countries. Mass production of artificial himroo items, besides affecting the sale of handcrafted himroo items, make senior artisans lose interest. Traders cash in on himroo's reputation and consumers' ignorance. During the years, many dozens of exotic himroo designs, namely bellbooti and uma farinda etc, have shed much of their grace and artistry.
“Learning himroo craft requires patience to sit for long hours, and zeal to master exotic techniques,” said senior artisan Vijay Khoje. An artisan, after one year of experience, is not assured of a steady income. . Shyam Mishra, who sells himroo craft, says, “The new generation of rich middle class people are unable to appreciate art items.” Public representatives, social workers, NGOs, promoting agencies, craft lovers and artisans must have the will to save the himroo craft tradition.
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