Pack a Thai punch

Not even in my wildest dreams had I imagined I’d sign up to learn Muay Thai, that too in the country of its origins. And yet, egged on by a spouse who believes all women should learn some form of self-defence, I find myself on a flight to Thailand.

After touchdown at the Bangkok airport, I am driven to the Fairtex Camp, even as I harboured visions of nights spent in a spartan tent, while being put through my paces. But all is well with the world again when the car pulls up outside a hotel (not a bolt of canvas in sight) in the beach town of Pattaya.

A country famous for its many tourist attractions, Thailand has in recent years inspired global interest in its much-revered martial art Muay Thai. Thai authorities are more than eager to promote this heritage attraction to deflect attention from other less-savoury aspects of tourism that have tarnished the country’s image. As learners arrive from across the world, Muay Thai training camps burgeon across the country.

At Fairtex Camp, I — basically a peace-loving person — line up for the exacting schedule with trepidation. But over the next couple of days, I find myself completely drawn to this adrenaline-pumping, high-energy sport.

The intense warm-up sessions help loosen the muscles and the actual Muay Thai training in the ring starts after that. At a dedicated gym with all manner of equipment, I embark on the loosening-up, more akin to a shake-up. Another area is set aside for punching bags. As I look around, no one appears to be an amateur; a Russian lady with rippling muscles gives measure for measure.

The mental agility demanded by this sport soon becomes apparent. The trainers are available in the morning and afternoon, and the patience with which they applaud my efforts is heartening. Handed a pair of gloves and shown the moves — involving fists, elbows, knees (for kicks) and legs — I am raring to go. When the sparring starts, the trainers yell punch, jab, knee or elbow, and one has to respond accordingly while protecting one’s face. An elongated “Ai ya” has me flummoxed — was that a cry of approval or a despairing “aiyo” for “What am I doing with this novice?”

One afternoon, I land a tough trainer who insists on 10 stomach crunches. After slogging through them, I breathlessly plead for relief, but he is relentless. I am stunned when he begs pardon, pins both my legs down using his own and puts me through 10 more crunches!

Most boys in Thailand are drawn to the sport from a young age, with the skills passed on from father to son, and later honed at training camps. Its origins — first recorded in the 17th century as a sport — are synonymous with Thai courtesy, discipline and sporting spirit. The high-cardio exercise involving nearly every muscle in the body is guaranteed to shed pounds. Now attracting women globally, it signals the changed times.

The invitation to Muay Thai training also included a visit to Ayuthaya (a variation on Ayodhya), the ancient capital of Thailand, where the 10th World Wai Kruay Muay Thai Championship is to take place. During the inaugural ceremony, boxers from across the world pay respects to their teachers and the legendary Muay Thai folk hero Nai Khanomtom. The Muay Thai dance performed by a pair of contestants is fascinating to watch, as one boxer followed by the other moves gracefully to the beats. The rules of the dance are even more interesting. If their dance steps seem to match, the two boxers are deemed to have been students of the same master. They are then expected to back off without a fight. Although today the dance is merely a ceremonial part of the championship, at times contestants happen to be ill-matched and a few, irrespective of gender, end up requiring serious medical attention. Then again, life’s hard lessons are, perhaps, best learnt in a Muay Thai ring.

( Melanie P Kumar is a Bangalore-based independent writer who likes to travel )

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