At 5,360 m, the Chang La is the second-highest motorable road in the world. It was the highest until the road to Mana Pass, bordering India and Tibet, was built. Chang La can be reached from Leh via the villages of Karu and Sekti. The last 10-15 km is familiar to biking enthusiasts as a difficult stretch, with the loose dirt and slush making the going harder. In the summer several rivulets gush across the road as the snow melts, making the ride even more challenging. The descent via the other route from Chang La to Tangtse or Darbuk is again steep.
The government has issued health advisories discouraging people from staying at the pass for longer than 20-25 minutes, citing potential respiratory issues because of the high altitude and lack of oxygen. At home here, however, are the Changpa — nomadic tribes native to the Changthang plateau. The world’s highest research station, established by the Defence Research and Development Organisation, is functional in Chang La at 17,664 ft.
Kamal Narang
Spiritual path: Padmasambhava, considered the second Buddha, travelled to Lahaul-Spiti (Himachal Pradesh) and Ladakh in the 7th century to spread Buddhism
All things fine: The Changpa are high-altitude pastoralists who primarily rear yak and goats, including the highly-prized Changra goats that yield pashmina
In solitude: The Changpa community is semi-nomadic. The nomadic members are called Phalpa, and the rest are known as Fangpa. Marriages are common between the tribe
The stoic life: Ladakh is often called mini-Tibet for its Buddhist influence and its many famous monasteries such as the Thikse and Korzok
Icy splash: The 134-km Pangong Lake, near Chang La, attracts many migratory birds such as the brahminy duck and bar-headed goose
Peak performance: The Chang La is a popular pass among bikers for its sheer height and the challenging route
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