While the sun shines

Scandinavian summers are unlike any other. The light only begins to soften around 9pm, and even then, it paints the city pink and indigo. As a visitor from a sunshine-abundant tropical country, my desire to linger under Copenhagen’s salmon skies is surprising.

When the weather is forgiving, the Danes take to the outdoors with an almost single-minded focus. Winters are long and dark; the sun often sets at 3.30pm. So it’s only natural to make the most of the sunshine. Leisure activities hinge on engaging with nature and being outdoors as much as possible.

Strolling at Islands Brygge one evening, I watch children jump into a public harbour bath. A fleet of open-top blue boats bobs gently in the water. Solar-powered Go Boats, made partly of recycled plastic bottles, are used as self-navigable picnic boats on the canals. Snack basket in hand, we pile into the boat and lay out munchies and drinks on the picnic table in the centre. It’s fairly easy to navigate, and only reaches a speed of about six-kilometres per hour, so there’s no danger, even as we fiddle about with the steer. At a leisurely pace, we glide down canals bordered by magnificent medieval buildings. From Frederiksholms, among Copenhagen’s oldest canals, I spot a clutch of delightful Renaissance structures. The 348-ft Tårnet, atop the Christiansborg Palace, is the city’s tallest tower. A spire made up of entwined dragon tails pokes towards the sky. This is the 17th-century Børsen, or the Old Stock Exchange.

It’s a wonderful concept, I think, to be able to enjoy the city’s glorious architectural sights through an unconventional outdoor activity, rather than check them off a list on a city sightseeing tour.

As we pass under a bridge, two girls in a green kayak row purposefully towards floating plastic trash to collect it. A young couple from the bridge applauds them.

The Green Kayak initiative run by popular outfit Kayak Republic rents out kayaks for free in exchange for collecting as much trash as possible from the canals. The heartening combined efforts of private organisations and individuals reflect the Danes’ commitment to an eco-conscious way of life.

The next morning arrives blustery and wet. I’m determined to join Kayak Republic’s daily tour, for a power-packed morning of sightseeing and exercise rolled into one. I’m the only one who’s shown up that day, on account of the weather, and so I ask cheery, 20-something kayak instructor Mal to go off-course and show me his favourite spots. He rattles off a list of names. “Knippelsbro is my favourite bridge. I even have a tattoo of it,” he says.

He rolls up his sleeve to show me an intricate sketch of a bridge, buildings in the background and all. As immensely personal and meaningful (to the bearer) as tattoos are, it is both curious and wonderful to know that someone would etch a piece of a city onto their body. Days later, I still thought about how that little sketch speaks volumes of the relationship that locals share with their city.

As we row down narrow canals, I gain a wonderful waterside perspective of the cityscape. My local friends point out several iconic modern marvels. Disused silos converted into high-end apartments, the triangular Aller Media building, water and sky reflected on the glittering Black Diamond. Cyclists whizz by overhead on the Bike Snake, a winding cycle-only bridge. We glide under the bright-red Circle Bridge, only for pedestrians, designed by an award-winning Danish-Icelandic architect to resemble yachts.

It is a stark contrast to the ornate medieval buildings from the previous day, but Copenhagen’s urban design aesthetic has evolved to focus on sustainability and encourage a healthy, outdoor lifestyle.

With nearly 400 km of cycle tracks and more bikes than residents, the cycling culture is a defining aspect of the Danish capital. In rain or shine, office-goers and families rely on the eco-friendly mode of transport. It’s not uncommon to see children riding alongside in the distinct Christiania bike — a cargo bike invented in Copenhagen. During “rush hour”, neat snaking lanes of cyclists are more common that cars.

In 2014, Copenhagen was the European Green Capital. The city is repeatedly touted as amongst the happiest in the world. Copenhageners spend a lot of their time outdoors, making up for grey days by squeezing the most out of the sunny ones.

Is this what makes for a happy city?

Rather than ticking tourist sights off a list, I walked, rowed, and cycled my way through Copenhagen. In doing as the locals did, I came away feeling I understood the city’s pulse a little better. It appears the city’s and its people’s goals aligned. That is, to build a sustainable, healthy lifestyle with outdoor infrastructure accessible to all. And, maybe, that is the route to a happy city.

Malavika Bhattacharyais a Delhi-based freelance travel journalist

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