Soon, the thread used to stitch apparels or footwear could be made by using natural raw materials like bamboo shoots, algae, starch, banana skin or even spider cells.

UK-based Coats, the world’s leading manufacturer in thread and structural components for apparel and footwear, is working on material transition from oil-based to non-oil based. Historically, 95 per cent of the raw materials and dyes and chemicals used for manufacturing are oil-based, said Rajiv Sharma, Group Chief Executive of the $1.6 billion company.

Coats’ India Sustainability Hub - a first of its kind in the country - launched recently in Madurai will play a key role in the material transition, he said.

At Coats, by 2030, everything may come from either recycled or renewable and new generation materials like wood pulp, corn, bamboo shoots and banana skin for making the threads, he said.

“We will try out vegan dyes and chemicals. We are working with multiple global suppliers on how we can consume less chemicals in our own process as less chemicals means less water use,” he said.

In the past, before this innovation hub, to create these samples would take months. The hub will generate 75 kg of samples every day to make threads of different materials with strength and size. The samples will be first tested at Coats itself; and then sent to customers to be used in their production line and once approved, it will move from sampling to bulk production, he added.

Historically, 95 per cent of the raw materials and dyes and chemicals used for manufacturing are oil-based. We are heavily dependent on oil for generating polyester, nylons, dyes and exotic materials used in manufacturing.

conserving water

The industry consumes a lot of water, electricity, chemicals and labour intensive in the making of the garment. For instance, nearly 150 litres of water is used to make 1 kg of thread. “We make enough thread to go to the moon and come back every three hours,” he said. A jeans pant requires nearly 700 litres of water, he claims. Technological advancements will enable the industry to produce the same jeans pant in less than half the water.

Coats, in the last four years, has reduced water consumption by 40 per cent. “Let’s invest in new technology where we would not need water at all. We are working with universities in the US, Germany, Japan and India to get the best brains to help us and the industry on this. There are also commercial benefits as the brands want it, and it becomes a point of differentiation for us,” he said.

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