Mediterranean dreams

It’s a sunny Saturday morning in Valbonne, and as I walk through the cobbled streets of this medieval town, in the company of Caroline Bierach, a local who works in the tourism industry, I catch a glimpse of that unmistakable French l’art de vivre, or the art of living. People sipping the popular ‘café au lait’, coffee with hot milk at terrace cafés, tourists coughing up their first sips of the heady local tipple, pastis, and locals walking around lugging baskets of fresh produce, armed with baguettes and bottles of wine. The quaint, charming town of Valbonne is arguably the most undiscovered part of the French Riviera, surrounded by and often in the shadow of its glitzier neighbours, namely Nice, Cannes and Antibes. “Valbonne is home to a huge American expatriate community, hence you will find a nice international mix of people and culture, in a perfectly French setting. It is highly recommended for those who want to go off the beaten path in southern France,” Bierach tells me as we settle in at one of the neighbourhood cafés, overlooking buildings that are several centuries old. Valbonne is merely the tip of the iceberg and my adventure in southern France begins here.

A short drive away, later that afternoon, I find myself on the ritzy rooftop bar, aptly named La Terrasse, at Le Meridien Nice, enjoying sundowners and the sweeping views of the Bay of Angels. Nice, the capital of the French Riviera, is a perfect base from which to explore towns along the Mediterranean coast. As I sip on a flute of champagne, and nibble on some local olives, I trace an itinerary along the Cote d’Azur, that includes the city of Nice and Cannes, the medieval towns of Vence and Saint-Paul-de-Vence, and the glamorous principality of Monaco.

From my vantage point, it becomes increasingly clear why France’s southernmost region is referred to as the Cote d’Azur, the azure coast. The Mediterranean Sea couldn’t look bluer and its nuances get more complex as the day progresses. I am booked into the Le Meridien Nice, located right on the promenade. I step out of the hotel, and a few minutes away is the old town of Nice, Vieux Nice. Given the city’s history, there is a visible Italian influence at every corner. Amble through the alleys of old Nice, buy some fresh provencal lavender, grab some fresh produce at the farmers’ market or enjoy a slice of Nice-style pizza (pissaladière) before a leisurely stroll down the promenade. While Nice’s beaches are buzzing, they are pebble beaches and not the most comfortable, I preferred the sandy beaches in the other towns along the coast. Nice is an important hub for art, with special museums dedicated to Marc Chagall and Henri Matisse. The Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, considered to be one of Europe’s finest, is a must-visit. The Negresco Nice Palace Hotel dates back to 1913. One of Europe’s finest art hotels, it continues to be a family-run establishment. Negresco boasts of a massive collection of classic and contemporary art, including an original portrait of Louis XIV and a grand Baccarat chandelier in the Salon Royal. The rooms and suites recreate the glorious era of French royalty. The Imperial Suite is inspired by Empress Josephine’s bedroom, while the Pompadour Suite is an ode to Louis XV’s favourite courtier.

Immortalised for its annual film festival — yes you can actually head to the Palais des Festivals and pose on the permanently installed red carpet on the famous staircase — Cannes is the crown jewel of the French Riviera. After a quick train ride from Nice, I find myself ambling through the tiny albeit glamorous streets of downtown Cannes. For company, I have an old friend Yvy Paraiso, a Nice-based French fashion model, who leads me to Rue d’Antibes, the town’s fashion boulevard. After a quick tour of the boutiques, we head towards the seafront promenade, La Croisette, with its string of luxury hotels, bars, beach clubs and cafés. I recommend a glass of local rosé at the Plage Royale bar or coffee at Armani/Caffè before hopping on a boat to the Lérins islands. One of the best kept secrets off the coast of Cannes, the Lérins islands, in particular, Saint-Marguerite has a beautiful fortress where the legendary Man in the Iron Mask was held captive for a long period of time (his jail cell is still preserved). Getting to Lérins is easy as there are regular boats leaving from Cannes port. Apart from the Croisette promenade which is rather glamorous, I did get to explore the quieter lanes of old Cannes, with its quaint neighbourhood bars, cafés and restaurants frequented by locals.

Contrary to popular belief, the Cote d’Azur is not all about beaches and seaside towns. Just a few kilometres inland, the hills (Maritime Alps) are well worth the trip. A case in point are the breathtaking medieval towns of Vence and Saint-Paul-de-Vence. The cultural highlight of Vence is its chapel designed by legendary French artist Matisse. I spend an evening ambling through Vence’s narrow lanes — Instagrammable at every corner — and drink from one of its famous public fountains which dispense fresh mountain water. A short drive away is the walled town of Saint-Paul-de-Vence, accessible only by foot. The medieval town is one of France’s art hubs with countless artists setting up shop in this tiny town. I lose myself in the labyrinth of art galleries dotting every corner. Don’t forget a mandatory stop at Les Tilleuls for a traditional café gourmand, where you can enjoy some spectacular views of the surrounding valleys from the stone walls of the town.

Getting to Monaco is easy as pie, with most people recommending the picturesque train journey from Nice. However, as I discovered, the quickest and most luxurious way to get to Monaco is a chopper transfer. Nothing quite like a swift airlift to arrive at the world’s most glamorous town. Interestingly, an aerial perspective of the dramatic Riviera landscapes — ocean, towns, Maritime Alps — is worth every penny, albeit extremely fleeting. The journey lasts under 10 minutes. As you arrive at the Monaco Heliport, you are whisked away to Monaco. Within its tiny square footage of 1.9 sq km, the principality packs in more punch that you can imagine, with millionaires, oligarchs, tycoons and royalty strolling nonchalantly at every street corner.

While first-timers to this tax-haven visit the touristy spots such as the Prince’s Palace (reminiscing about Grace Kelly’s time spent there), the Oceanographic Museum and the Monaco Cathedral, the more discerning luxury travellers would want something more. Like champagne on the private beach at Adamas, an uber-luxury beach lounge popular among visiting celebrities and models. Monaco is brimming with exclusive bars, private member’s clubs and brasseries, frequented by its stylish locals and far from the tourist throngs.

Alternately, you could hire a yacht and sail around the peninsula, followed by a Michelin-starred experience at Alain Ducasse’s Louis XV, at the Hotel de Paris and end the night, rubbing shoulders with international celebrities at the Monte Carlo Casino to spend the rest of the night merrily. Who’s in for it?

Riaan Jacob George is a lifestyle journalist based in Mumbai

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