It seems that all things Italian have caught the fancy of Indians nowadays. Italians are known for their attention to quality and love of the good life, so it is no wonder that we find ourselves attracted to products from that region. The entry of Italian crafted leather goods, fashion brands and furniture into the market is just one end of the spectrum. On the other, we see a spurt in interest in Italian cuisine and a growth in the number of restaurants in every city serving the same. In fact, no luxury hotel is complete without a gourmet Italian restaurant.

But what if you just want to create a sumptuous gourmet Italian meal at home? The ingredients for that are available in most gourmet stores now, right from fresh herbs to specialty dried pasta. But the latest Italian import delighting gourmands in the country is the Porcini mushroom. Yes, it may not look very pretty and can be dismissed as just a fungus, but the Porcini mushroom can elevate a dish to new level when used correctly. The lowly button mushroom pales in comparison to this recently-arrived contender. A native of the Parma region in Italy and with a name that roughly translates to “piglet”, it is seen in other parts of Europe and North America as well, but the Italian variety is the most sought-after. Sreejith Mohan, Category-Head, Godrej Nature’s Basket (a chain of gourmet food stores which sells fine food products from across the world) says that Porcini mushroom consumption is on the rise in India. “While the sales base is still low, Porcini mushroom on its own is an emerging product and is getting popular across metros”, he adds. Chef Chandra Kumar of The Leela Palace Udaipur agrees that the Porcini is sought after by many for its meaty texture, earthy aroma and nutty taste.

Pining for Porcini

Porcini mushrooms are usually found growing wild in coniferous forests in the Northern Hemisphere but are a favourite of Italians and are therefore used a lot in their cuisine. These mushrooms grow at the foot of pine, spruce, chestnut and other tree species from similar families and while controlled cultivation has been attempted, it has not produced great results. So most vendors put on their hiking boots and venture out into the forests to forage for Porcini mushrooms during autumn, when they are found in their best natural state. The inability to cultivate Porcini on a large scale has elevated this mushroom to its gourmet status. In India, it may be found sometimes in Arunachal Pradesh, but supply is low and so most gourmands prefer the imported variety.

Fresh Porcini is quite easy to recognise with its stubby stalk and slightly sticky, reddish-brown cap. Be advised that there are a number of varieties of mushroom from the same family, so the colours and textures may vary a little. If you chance upon some fresh, imported Porcini mushrooms here in India, make sure you check them for holes in their stalks which may indicate worms. Also, the underside of the cap must not be dark in colour.

Adding flavour

Porcini mushrooms are known for their intensely nutty, woody taste and heady aroma. Since bottled or dried Porcini is more easily available in stores here, open the jar or packet to make sure that the aroma is intense. Whole dried Porcini is much better in dishes as crumbly pieces lack flavour. Dried Porcini is easy to use, as it only involves steeping the mushrooms covered in hot water for around twenty minutes and then mincing them as required. But don’t throw away the steeping liquid! Once strained, add it to the dish you are making as it enhances it with a large dose of mushroom flavour. Porcini mushrooms can be added to pretty much any Italian dish, although their nutty taste is best savoured in risottos and creamy pastas. When used in soups, there is a chance of their flavour getting to be overpowering. As far as possible, include thyme as one of the herbs in the recipe as it pairs best with Porcini; its hearty, woody flavour can stand up to that of the mushroom. Fresh Porcini mushrooms can be grilled to bring out their natural flavour and served simply with a subtle sauce. Sometimes, dried Porcini is ground up into a powder that is used in stews and sauces, where the mushroom is needed only for its taste and not texture.

Porcini mushrooms, like the Portobello and Cremini mushrooms, maybe difficult to source but are worth the time that goes into the search. They are a great way to take your Italian dish to a luxurious new height.

archana.a@thehindu.co.in

RECIPES

1. Ravioli ai funghi porcini con salsa al timo e speck

(Porcini mushroom ravioli with speck and thyme sauce)

Ingredients:

For the pasta dough

Durum wheat flour-125gms

Flour-125 gms

Whole egg-3 nos

Olive oil (extra virgin) - 25ml

Salt -5gms

For the stuffing

Porcini mushroom (dry, rehydrate in water before use and chopped) -75gms

Button mushroom (chopped) -150gms

Garlic - 1 clove

Thyme -15gms

White wine -25ml

Salt -to taste

Bread crumbs -25gms

Olive oil -30ml

For the sauce

Chicken stock-250ml

Castel Speck (Italian ham chopped)-50gms

Thyme-5gms

Porcini water - 50ml

Salt- to taste

White Roux - 15gms

Method:

For the pasta dough:

Combine the above mentioned ingredients to form hard dough. Allow the dough to rest for 20 minutes.

For the stuffing:

While the dough rests, the stuffing for the pasta can be made as follows:

Heat olive oil in a pan, add the garlic clove, thyme, button mushrooms, porcini mushrooms and sauté. Deglaze the pan with white wine and season to taste. Allow the mixture to cool and add the breadcrumbs.Roll the pasta dough to a sheet of 2mm thickness. Cut out the desired shape of the pasta sheets and stuff with the mushroom filling.Cook the stuffed ravioli in salted boiling water and set aside.

For the sauce:

Heat the pan; add one clove of garlic, thyme, chopped speck and sauté. Add chicken stock, porcini water and season the sauce, allow it to boil. Dilute the white roux with water and add it to the boiling sauce and cook till it thickens.

Recipe courtesy of Prego, Taj Coromandel

2. Porcini risotto with pecorino shavings and sautéed split peas

Ingredients:

Dried porcini - 50 grams

Carnaroli rice - 250 grams

Green peas - 150 grams

Chopped onions - 100 grams

Chopped garlic - 30 grams

Pecorino cheese - 180 grams

Semi- dry white wine - 200 ml

Extra virgin olive oil - 150 ml

Unsalted butter - 100 grams

Thyme - 5 grams

Mushroom stock - 250 ml

Basil sprig (for garnish) - 5 grams

Salt and crushed black pepper - As per your taste

Method:

Wash the dried porcini in running cold water and soak it in lukewarm water for 5mins. Remove the husk from the fresh green peas, to release the split peas from within. Heat a pan, add the olive oil and once warm, add chopped garlic, sauté for a minute and add the chopped onions. Sauté till translucent. Add the carnaroli rice, sauté for 2mins, seasoning with a little salt. Deglaze with the wine. Add the warm mushroom stock and soaked porcini liquid. Simmer cook for 12mins, stirring as little as possible. Add the soaked porcini and split peas, continue cooking for an additional 3mins. Check the rice to see if it is done, add the unsalted butter and pecorino cheese. Mix well till creamy texture is attained. Serve garnished with pecorino shavings, sautéed porcini and a sprig of basil.

Note: Pecorino is a salty cheese, hence use salt sparingly in the recipe.

Recipe courtesy of Chef Chandra Kumar T. K., Senior Sous Chef, The Leela Palace Udaipur

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