Where Korea cut itself

There is always something disquieting and sinister about barbed-wire fencing. Standing on the Freedom Bridge, as we stare across the divide between South and North Korea, the thorny fortifications intrude into our line of vision.

This is the last point where visitors can go on the historic old bridge. It was across this bridge half a century ago that thousands of South Koreans and Allied soldiers scrambled back to safety after a long and painful War.

There are hundreds of messages scrawled on colourful pieces of cloth, hanging forlornly from the bridge. All are a plea for unification.

We are at the Imjingak memorial shrine at one of the world's tensest borders, just a few kilometres from the Demilitarised Military Zone (DMZ) between South and North Korea. This shrine has been built in memory of those displaced by the Korean War and its aftermath. It is estimated that 10 million South Koreans are separated from their families in North Korea. The relics of a bombed out train — with some startling sound effects added — bring you the actual horrors of the Korean War.

Nearly 60 years on, relations between the two neighbours are no better. Set on a mountainous terrain with a river flowing by, this should have been a serene setting. But, instead, the hillside is bristling with tension. “It's like your India and Pakistan. We can relate so much to your Partition story,” says Emily, our guide. She also points to another interesting comparison — Korea's liberation day, the day the Japanese left, is August 15, same as our independence day.

Even before our team of journalists from India lands in Seoul on a trip sponsored by LG Electronics, we have been getting to know about the India-Korea connections — old and new.

The Koreans claim that their legendary King Suro was married to an Indian Princess from Ayodhya. This being the year of Korea in India, and India in Korea, the tale is being repeated at many forums.

How well the Koreans do their homework is apparent from the first questions we are asked when we touch down in Seoul — for a country that doesn't play cricket, the Koreans seem remarkably interested in the game and keep congratulating us on the World Cup win. Obviously, there is a business reason for this strange curiosity in cricket — the better we do in cricket, the more TVs companies like LG and Samsung can sell in India.

Doing business in a conflict zone

Day one in Seoul is relaxed with a trip to Lotte World, an indoor theme park, and to Itaewon, a tourist hub with lots of bars and restaurants and a bustling shopping area. Here, we eat at an Indian restaurant, Ashoka, and learn that the cuisines of India are getting quite popular in Seoul.

Day two, we head out to LG's factory in the new industrial township of Paju, very close to the DMZ. Ever since we heard of Paju's proximity to the North Korean border, and the fact that it is a military hub, we are intrigued. Given the constant skirmishes with its neighbour, why in the world is the “rising future city” of South Korea being constructed so close to the war zone, so to speak?

Our worries seem justified all through the short drive to Paju, as all along the Imjim river we can see heavy barbed-wire fortifications and guard posts. Emily tells us that access to the river has been cut off ever since North Korea — which is upstream of the river — sent spies down it.

Arriving in Paju, where we are greeted by the sight of massive building blocks coming up, both office complexes and residential, we find the locals quite sanguine. Rather than feeling insecure, they appear to be milking the proximity to the world's last hot border for its full touristic worth. There are observatories galore at Paju — there is even one in the LG factory, where we are taken with schoolboy-ish enthusiasm to view North Korean villages (I must confess the mist obscured the view, and apart from a few signposts I could make nothing out).

We learn that there are DMZ tours which start at Panmujom, a town right within the zone. Special permits are needed for this trip, which takes you to the Bridge of No Return and Camp Bonifas.

For those who know their Korean War history, it's all superbly exciting for sure.

But, meanwhile, after the industrial face and the military side, we get to see yet another aspect of Paju at Heyri, an eco village set up by artists. This village houses some 400 artists, writers, painters and musicians and the name comes from Heyri Son, a folk song that farmers sing. It has a superb Italian restaurant, where we lunch.

Wide-awake night markets

All too soon, it's time to get back to Seoul, to a pretty much soulless concrete jungle. With its towering skyscrapers and fancy roads crisscrossing the Han river (there are at least 26 bridges over the river), Seoul may be the face of modernity but lacks the charm of Paju. Or any sense of distinctiveness.

Left to our own devices in the evening, our Indian characteristics come to the fore and we make straight for the shopping area. To our glee, we find that Seoul has day markets as well as night markets. Night markets such as Dongdaemum start at 9 p.m. and operate till dawn. But it's to the Namdaemum night market, which keeps more conservative hours, that we walk up to. From ginseng wine to shoes, jackets and souvenirs, the market has everything — and we bargain away to our heart's content.

Our Korean hosts seem to understand our penchant for shopping and the next day they take us to the local electronics paradise, as well as the old city area.

Unfortunately, this trip to Korea does not include a visit to some of the country's more attractive spots — the spectacular Jeju Island, which, we are told, has now got into the new Seven Wonders of the World list.

We have to be content with the orange chocolates that are famous to the region.

India-Korea: Celebrating ancient ties

Don't be too surprised if suddenly there seem to be a lot of Korean cultural shows and seminars happening in your city. It's the year of South Korea in India, flagged off by an amazing showcasing of folk dances at the Korea festival in Delhi and Chennai in March. Over the next few months, says Kim Joong-Keun, Ambassador of the Republic of Korea, we will see a host of events including an exhibition of Korean martial art, a seminar, concert and so on.

His take on… Koreans in India and vice-versa

In India there are roughly 8,500 Koreans and in Korea there are approximately 7,000 Indians.

Indian cities with largest Korean communities

Delhi has the biggest Korean community (3,000), followed by Chennai (2,500) and Bangalore (1,000).

Historical perspective of Indo-Korean linkages

According to the founding legend of Geumgwan Gaya, recorded in the 13th century, texts of the chronicle Garakguk-gi (History of Garak State) of Samguk Yusa, King Suro was one of six princes born from eggs that descended from the sky in a golden bowl wrapped in red cloth. Suro was the firstborn among them and led the others in setting up six states while asserting the leadership of the Gaya confederacy.

King Suro's queen Heo Hwang-ok, continues the legend, was a princess from the Indian country of Ayuta (Ayodhya). She is said to have arrived in Gaya by boat. They had ten sons in all, two of whom took the mother's family name. The tale has gained modern significance in the light of present relations between Korea and India. There are some 500 words common between Tamil and Korean, with the same pronunciation and meaning. Some examples: (Father) Appa in Korean is the same as a ppa in Tamil. Snake — Bambu (Tamil), baem (Korean); Why — En , waen ; Wife — Manaivi , manura .

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