Deliciously yours, Macao

Small is large — at least it is in Macao. What it lacks in space, it makes up for with its big heart. For a land mass of just about 30.5 sq-km, the cluster of islands on the south coast of China sure does boast varied cultural offerings. While revellers and gamblers jostle about its hotels in the hope of maximising their fortunes, I am seeking out a treasure of a different kind. This fortune requires an investment but provides guaranteed returns: On your taste buds and appetite! Macao’s two-forked heritage — Chinese and Portuguese — has made it the site of multiple culinary treats. From sweets and street snacks to crossover delights and hearty Macanese, Chinese and Portuguese fare, tiny Macao is a gourmet’s dream come true. Here are some foodie experiences that you must not miss in Macao:

Street smart

Taipa Village is located on its namesake island and is a total contrast to the casino-filled Cotai nearby. Colourful street art, meandering lanes, art galleries and speciality restaurants fill this space. Its pièce de résistance is the Rua do Cunha or Taipa Food Street, where the colourful shops are as varied as the culinary offerings. Try the 2019 Michelin Guide-recommended almond cookies and egg rolls at Pastelaria Fong Kei. Follow up the sweetness with the savoury beef and pork jerky, which almost every second store owner will ask you to sample. I relished the pork buns — seasoned and crisped to perfection — at Tai Lei Loi Kei and signed off my Taipa tryst with a slice of traditional Portuguese Serradura cake — lovely layers of whipped cream and crushed biscuit— at Bitter Sweet Bakery. Culinary experiences start at as little as 8 Macanese Pataca (MOP) (₹65) at Taipa Food Street.

Crossover charm

Take that: Macao’s Chinese and Portuguese heritage makes it the site of multiple culinary treats such as the pig ear tart

Crossover cuisine is one of the best results of a destination with diverse heritage. At Seek Your Choice Bistro in Panoramica do Lago Nam Van, guests are treated to delicious European dishes with a hint of Chinese and Macanese influences. At a sit-down meal, I sampled pig ear tarts (enriched by white wine vinegar and coriander), egg rolls stuffed with Bacalhau (Portuguese-style salted cod), Portuguese-style potato soup, and pan-seared local Amadai fish with a seafood, tomato, garlic and olive oil sauce. The highlight was the Australian beef roasted with a Tijan dressing (a fusion mix of soy sauce, mustard, mayo, thyme, rosemary and chives). The veritable sweet spot was hit with pear poached in Porto wine and flavoured with cinnamon and lemon. All of this was washed down with a honey and watercress cooler. A meal for two costs about MOP 300 or ₹2,600.

Traditional delights

Macanese delights are mandatory on this island menu. Hearty fare that spells “home” is the order of the day at restaurants such as Riquexo (starts at MOP 100 or ₹900 for two) and Restaurante Litoral (starts at MOP 300 for two). Must-have dishes include Minchi — a coming together of minced beef and diced potatoes and onions topped with Worcestershire sauce, and African Chicken — Macanese chicken curry cooked with paprika, peanuts, tomato and coconut. Boasting the charms of Europe and Asia is Tacho: A stew of cabbage, ham, pork and Chinese sausage that’s perfect for chilly evenings.

Chinese flair

Small offering: Macao’s Chinese and Portuguese heritage makes it the site of multiple culinary treats such as the pork and shrimp siu mai

Sit down and gorge on dumplings galore at Federal Restaurant — an eatery frequented by locals for Sunday lunch. A waitress will give you a list of dishes to check off from, and then a steady stream of Chinese favourites will be served to you on a rotating lazy Susan. Think pork and shrimp siu mai, fried milk rolls, egg-and-green-onion crepe, glutinous rice with chicken wrapped in lotus leaf, beef balls with bean curd, custard lava buns, rice flour rolls with shrimp, and lots more, accompanied with fermented Pu-er tea (starts at MOP 150 or ₹1,300 for two).

Sip it: Macao’s Chinese and Portuguese heritage makes it the site of multiple culinary treats such as fermented Pu-er tea

Pasteis de what?

There’s no way you can visit Macao and miss out on its world-famous egg tart. Also called Pasteis de Nata, it’s the brainchild of Englishman Andrew Stow, who opened Lord Stow’s Bakery in 1989 (visit the original one at the Coloane Port). Portuguese in style with British ingredients, this star tart oozes the goodness of warm custard in a crispy savoury pastry. I enjoyed it by the seafront, which is a stone’s throw from the bakery (MOP 9 or ₹80 a piece). Another must-try is its cousin, the Pasteis de Chaves, which originated in the Portuguese city of Chaves in 1862. A flaky pastry stuffed with beef mince, it is sold at a store of the same name near Senado Square (MOP 10 or ₹90 a piece).

And finally... decadence

Those looking for a luxurious all-out binge won’t be disappointed. The all-you-can-eat Fontana Buffet at the Wynn Palace Hotel is a must-do for lovers of varied cuisines (MOP 268 or ₹2,330 per person). The hotel’s flower show and views of the Performance Lake are added treats. The buffet at Sky 21 in the AIA Tower is a seafood paradise coupled with rooftop views of a twinkling Macao after sunset (starts at MOP 300 for two).

Ananya Bahl is a travel writer based in Mumbai

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