The Hindu Business Line : `Interval' <I>samosas </I>

Gracious Liberty Cinema in posh South Mumbai, historical Maratha Mandir in Central Mumbai, the Gaiety-Galaxy-Gemini complex in fashionable Bandra, Vijay and Ashish in rundown Chembur, the glittering multiplexes in the suburbs. Different types of theatres... different types of films and audiences.

But there is one common factor, the samosas you get to eat in their snack bars. These come from the `Gurukripa' factory in Sion, which prepares nearly 30,000 samosas daily and caters to nearly two-thirds of the city theatres. Food lovers can sample the samosa and other delicacies at the Gurukripa restaurant, a major tourist attraction in Sion.

Says Manoj Desai, executive director of the Bandra theatre complex, "As many people come to watch our films as to eat samosas." In film journalist Bhawana Somayya's biography on Amitabh Bachchan, there is a reference to the samosa-maker who visited the star with a basketful to thank him for drawing audiences to the theatres. That was the owner of Gurukripa. The late Raj Kapoor was a regular and appreciative customer. Dilip Kumar left a note praising the special falooda, gulab jamun and other sweets.

Gurukripa samosas are regularly supplied to the homes of Shiv Sena chief Bal Thackeray and other Mumbai VIPs. Their appeal cuts across class.

Tucking into the hot samosas and chutney, former SIES (Sion) college students, Geetu and Sridevi say they often return to their alma mater so they could sample the samosas once again. During mornings the restaurant is packed with boys and girls from SIES and other colleges.

Says 30-year-old Gobind Wadhwa, who along with his father and uncle, manages the restaurant, "Students pass out of the colleges, become doctors, lawyers, cost accountants and other professionals. But they keep visiting our restaurant with family and talk about the good old days. We cherish such loyalty."

What is so special about the Gurukripa samosa? The recipe is secret and constantly improved upon by Gobind's father, 58-year-old Vishindas Wadhwa. He personally trains all the chefs at the restaurant, most of whom are from Tamil Nadu. "Each one handles a set of delicacies and becomes a specialist," says Gobind. "We prefer Tamilians because they are loyal, hardworking, clean and learn quickly."

Gurukripa offers more than 50 items on the menu including favourites like ragda patties, different kinds of sev puris and bhel puris, south Indian items and sweets like Ras Malai, Sondesh, Indrani and carrot halwa (seasonal). There is great demand for the Gurukripa lassi, which tastes and smells of fresh cream, and the Sindhi breakfast delicacy, pakhwan dal, which is available only between 7.30 and 11.30 a.m.

The takeaway counters are equally crowded. Most of the foodstuff is cooked over coal fire to make them tastier. The Wadhwas had been in catering for decades and had several small eateries in and around Karachi. They lost everything during Partition and came to India where they surveyed Jaipur, Delhi, Baroda and other places before settling down in Mumbai (then Bombay); grandfather Nevandram started the samosa business from a small stall. The present Gurukripa was started in 1975.

The shop caters to schools, colleges and other institutions, but it also supplies samosas free at picnics organised for poor schools and charitable institutions. Each night, the day's leftovers are handed over to the Sion Koliwada gurudwara to be distributed among the poor.

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