The Hindu Business Line : Infinite serenity

The ancient carved stone terraces of the Borobudur monument rise out of Indonesia’s Central Java plains like a grand wedding cake trimmed with hundreds of Buddha statues. Considered the largest Buddhist monument in the world, this wondrously sculpted mound makes for an impressive sight..

We checked into our hotel in Yogyakarta, the town closest to this Buddhist centre. In May 2006, a powerful earthquake rocked the city, causing death and damage. Yogyakarta (pronounced Jogjakarta), or Yogya for short, has recovered since and life on its roads and alleyways is back to normal.

We woke at 3 a.m. to take photographs of the sun rising behind a huge volcano — the Merapi —that lies a few kilometres from the temple. Unpredictable and dangerous, the volcano is a constant presence in the region; and for those living in the villages close to Merapi’s ominous crater, sleep is often tenuous.

The Borobudur temple is believed to represent Mount Meru, the centre of the universe in Hindu/Buddhist mythology.

The temple has nine levels and the top circular levels symbolise the spiritual world. We began climbing the steep stairs early in the day, before it could turn hot and humid. With some exertion we climbed to the top and sat next to the central stupa.

The sun rose behind the mountain and, as the light spread, I felt transported into another world. Bell-shaped, perforated stupas, each housing a Buddha, surrounded me. In front was a Buddha, sans the outer covering, serene in contemplation.

History and origins

NIVEDITA CHOUDHURI

Peace enshrined: The Borobudur temple in Indonesia's Java island is believed to have been built in the 8th century by the Sailendra dynasty.

In 8th century Java, the prosperous Sailendra dynasty converted to Mahayana Buddhism. Using the most advanced techniques available then, the rulers built this brilliantly designed temple between 750 A.D. and 800 A.D. However, less than a century after its completion, Borobudur disappeared into oblivion.

Some believe that the eruption of Mount Merapi and the violent earthquake that followed in the 10th century had forced the dynasty to migrate to the eastern side of the island. Over the centuries, water-logging caused the structure to cave in at many places. Like Pompeii underneath its shroud of ash, Borobudur fell into a thousand-year sleep.

Until, in 1814, the legendary structure buried deep in the jungle was rediscovered by an agent sent out by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, the then British governor of Java. Raffles had always been intrigued by the exotic stories and architecture of the Indonesian islands. However, in the absence of any historical records, he was unable to determine the exact date of Borobudur’s construction.

As word of the discovery spread, scholars began to visit the site. In 1885, a Dutch architect involved in the restoration work came across panels with carved inscriptions. The lettering was found characteristic of the 9th century and experts concluded that the structure had been built by the Sailendra dynasty.

The nine levels

In recent years, a $25-million project has helped restore the structure to its former glory. There are 1,200 carvings in all, each packed with exquisite detail and showing the daily life of people at work and prayer, as also parables now long-obscure. You can find carvings on the inner wall of the stupa as well as on the outer parapet of the walkway on each level of the structure.

Levels one to five are square and believed to represent the material world.

The sculptures on level one represent the world of desires and reflect the Buddha’s fundamental teaching — all misery is caused by desire and man cannot be free of suffering until desire is extinguished.

Level two shows the life of Buddha from birth to enlightenment, death and his journey from earth to heaven. Levels three, four and five reveal the life, trials and tribulations of the pilgrim Sudhana on his quest for spiritual wisdom.

Hot tourism spot

Our trip lasted a good three hours. While returning to the car park, we were accosted by hawkers. We had waved them away on our way in but now there was no escape. We ended up buying a set of 10 tacky greeting cards with batik motifs.

For 1,000 years, the 504 Buddhas of Borobudur have remained in peaceful contemplation. It was impossible not to feel an enormous sense of calm despite the racket created by the hawkers.

I wondered how Raffles must have felt when he saw all this for the first time. Borobudur must have been staggering to this British East India Company employee. My thoughts were interrupted by groups of laughing and chattering tourists. Visitors were arriving in busloads to see the eighth wonder of the world. The place was soon awash with people and noise — cameras, CD players and laughter.

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