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Sharmila Chand

Sharmila Chand visits Ajmer and Udaipur in Rajasthan and is fascinated by the many palaces and places of worship that adorn these towns.

The spectacular Lake Palace in Udaipur.

A multi-hued State, Rajasthan is known for its breathtaking palaces and majestic forts, brimming with tales of valour and warm and friendly people. In a State where various faiths have been intermingling since time immemorial, it is not surprising to find the exquisite Dilwara Jain Temples, as also Nathdwara, dedicated to Srinathji, a manifestation of Lord Krishna, near Udaipur, and the famous Dargah Sharif in Ajmer. Especially worth mentioning are Ajmer and Udaipur, which have some of the important places of worship belonging to different faiths.

Ajmer attractions

Ajmer is one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in India. Established in the early 7th century by Raja Ajaipal Chauhan, Ajmer was a major centre of power till Prithviraj Chauhan lost it to Mohammed Gauri in 1193 A.D.

Situated 130 km west of Jaipur, Ajmer is widely known as the final resting place of the great Sufi saint Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti. It is said that Emperor Akbar walked all the way from Agra to Ajmer to seek his blessings. When his wishes bore fruit and a son was born to him, Akbar built the magnificent Akbari Masjid in the Dargah premises as an expression of his gratitude. At the annual Urs festival, which lasts for six days, scores of pilgrims visit the shrine. The Khwaja's compassion for the poor and the downtrodden, irrespective of their caste and creed, earned him the name Garib Nawaz. A visit to this dargah and listening to the devotional music is an experience in itself.

Next on our list was Adhai-din-ka-jhopra, literally meaning the two-and-a-half day shed. It is a relic of the largest mosque in the country, and was ordered by the invader Mohammad Ghori to be readied in this short time, and hence the name. The mosque is built on pillars and, interestingly, no two pillars are alike. The archways are finely engraved with Kufi and Jhughra inscriptions from the Holy Quran.

A visit to the red sandstone museum, which used to be Akbar's royal palace, is also a must. The building now houses a rich collection of Mughal and Rajput armoury. The Ana Sagar Lake, which, according to our guide, was built by King Anaji, grandfather of Prithviraj Chauhan, was next on our cards. It is strategically located between two hillocks, Bajrang Garh and Khobra Bherun (named after the Hindu temples built on them). Later, Mughal emperor Shah Jahan added the Baradari, a marble pavilion to the lake. I also saw the Daulat Bagh Gardens, adjacent to the lake, set up by Emperor Jehangir.

Nasiyan is an interesting Jain temple, built in the 19th century. Here the wooden gilt in the two-storeyed hall depicts scenes from the Jain mythology, all in gold.

The town's earlier antecedents can be found in the ruins of Taragarh Fort that spans the hills surrounding Ajmer. A steep one-and-a-half hour climb beyond the Adhai-din-ka-jhopra leads to the ruins of the Fort.

Ajmer, an important pilgrimage destination in Rajasthan .

Built in the 7th century by Ajaipal Chauhan, the Fort gives a bird's eye view of Ajmer. Although in a bad state today, it is believed to be the first fort to have been built on a hill, rendering the hill invincible. Hence, Ajaipal Chauhan named it Ajai Meru, meaning an invincible hill.

As far as shopping in Ajmer is concerned, you will find interesting metal ware in the form of pitchers and urns. You also find the famous attar here. Shopperholics will have to be content with this!

Around Ajmer

A visit to Ajmer is incomplete without a trip to Pushkar, which is barely 11 km west of Ajmer. This is the abode of Lord Brahma and is sacred to Hindus.

With more than 400 temples and 52 ghats, Pushkar has so much charm that you could spend hours sitting on the ghat and get lost in your thoughts with a breath-taking sight of the setting sun.

Udaipur beckons

This `City Of Lakes' or the `Venice of the East', is a perfect oasis in the desert land, exuding romance, colourful history, elegance and love.

Founded in 1599 by Maharana Udai Singh, the city is very strategically situated on the edge of three lakes and replete with palaces straight out of fairy tales and rugged fortresses that recount its history.

The real pride of Udaipur is its architectural heritage. Wherever you go, you are quite taken aback by the shy lakes, which suddenly emerge in the midst of sandy terrain or forested hills. And, in the lakes, or by their side, are beautiful palaces recreating the magical past.

It was at Jag Mandir, originally used by the royals for festive occasions, that Prince Khurram, later Emperor Shah Jahan, took refuge in 1624. It was here, it is said, that he got the inspiration for his ode, the Taj Mahal. Jag Niwas, built in 1746 as the summer residence of the rulers, is now the famous Lake Palace Hotel, managed by the Taj Group. It took three years for Maharana Jagat Singh II to create his "sonnet in stone" in the midst of the peaceful lake. It soon became the royals' summer resort, where regal durbars were held amongst the pillared terraces and gardens.

The marble façade, luminescent by day and night, stands out with beautiful ancient frescoes, intricate mirror mosaics, stained glass windows and various lily ponds. Overlooking the lake is the granite and marble edifice, the majestic `City Palace'. According to our guide, about 22 maharajas, over a period of 450 years, have added gateways, courtyards, domes and terraces to the original structure. What you see today is a palace complex stretching for nearly half-a-km. The main part of the palace is now preserved as a museum, displaying a large collection of artefacts.

A special gallery is dedicated to Maharana Pratap, with his myriad weapons on display here. There is also an Archival Gallery, where you can see remains of temples as old as the 6th century A.D.

If you are seriously interested in Mewar history, then the Palace also has the Maharana Mewar Special Library with an amazing collection of 70,000 volumes, most of it of antique value.

The Palace is a visual delight as it is a fascinating mix of courtyards richly decorated with inlaid mirror-work, galleries covered with frescoes, temples and kiosks from where one can see the Pichola Lake. Topped with towers and domes, each individual enclosure is picturesquely decorated.

A little away from Udaipur...

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