The Hindu Business Line : Alpine hangover

This was a much-touted view. Highly rated in a country that offers views at every corner. But no one can account for the mist, and it was there with a vengeance that morning.

All around, spread in an uneven pattern from horizon to horizon, stretch six countries, but one can't see the borders because the mountains just go on and on. And the mist didn't help either. Despite all this, it was a breathtaking panorama that greeted us as we braved the wind that seemed to have come all the way from the Arctic.

The warmth of central heating beckoned — tempting enough for us to abandon the `vantage point' outside and scurry indoors. However, large bay windows ensured good views from the inside too. A cup of steaming coffee in hand, I watched the hordes of tourists perched outside on the observation deck, trying to see all those countries through all those mountains.If the drive from Appenzel, through picturesque pre-alpine countryside was joyous, the trip to the summit was magical. The blue and white cable-car literally whisked us up to the summit. Below, spread like a pale-green carpet, lay the gentle landscape of the Schwagalp.

The Santis isn't just any other Swiss mountain. It's a mountain of encounters, welcoming people from all over the world who spend hours admiring the views. With its free view across six countries, it signifies freedom without frontiers at the top.

Santis is also a national and international communications centre with sophisticated installations, including a 123-metre high transmitter mast. The weather station on the summit has been at its job for the last 100 years. Located on top of the Santis is Europe's first membrane bioreactor waste-water purification plant, with the treated water so clear it can be allowed to seep away into the mountain.

We were taken on a guided tour of the communications installations by one of the employees. From the basic equipment hauled up by cable car, to the more sophisticated parts put in place by a helicopter, we learnt of the efforts that went into the construction.The idyllic alpine moorland surrounding the Schwagalp is a protected environment because of its wealth of rare plants, bright alpine flowers, and animals such as mountain goats, ibex, chamois and alpine claws.

For the adventure buff, there is an impressive network of well signposted hiking trails. Winters offer cross-country skiing trails, a ski-lift on the Schwagalp, and downhill skiing from the Santis. One can take romantic rides in horse-drawn sleighs, have a gluhwein (a hot tea cocktail) to keep warm during the ride, and round off the evening with an Appenzeller cheese fondue in the cosy Berghotel Schwagalp or the Arvenstube of the Gasthaus Passhohe.

Original goods, including Appenzel handicrafts and a variety of souvenirs can be bought at the spacious Summit Shop. It's well worth buying the delicious `Santiskristallkase' (Santis crystal cheese) from the Schwagalp Alpine Demonstration Cheese Dairy, which, from May through October, reveals the finer points of Alpine cheese and the secrets of cheese-making. The Panorama Restaurant has two outlets, both of which have terraces that offer views as tempting as the culinary fare. From a copious breakfast buffet to a small snack, or a full-course meal, it is sumptuous cuisine.

Leisurely pursuits apart, there is a business side to things too. The summit is a very popular convention and exhibition centre, with seminar and congress rooms and state-of-the-art infrastructure.

Fact file

How to get there

By road: The Schwagalp is two hours by road from Zurich, and easily accessible by public and private transport. Several conducted tours are available.

By air: Swissair operates direct flights to Zurich from Delhi and Mumbai.

Visa regulations: Indian nationals require a visa to enter Switzerland.

Where to stay: The Berghotel Schwagalp, which also hasa large restaurant.

How to get around: One can take a conducted tour of the complex, and also go on excursions in the surrounding area.

Cuisine: The two restaurants at Santis serve diverse cuisine, including a vegetarian selection.

Pictures by the author

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