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The many splendours of Malabar

V.K. Varadarajan

Planning a holiday in Kerala? Check out the Malabar region with its rich tapestry of art, folklore, romantic beaches and delectable cuisine. Best of all, it's not crowded... yet.


Bekal Fort in Kannur

Even an off-road sports utility vehicle would find the Karnataka State highway connecting Bangalore to Kannur (Cannanore), a test to its mettle. But the spirited hedonists in quest of the rich heritage and exciting beach spots, braved the rough patch through Hunsur, Gonikoppal and Iritti. The situation, however, riles the mandarins in Kannur who sense the wasted potential of this strategic stretch connecting popular getaways like Goa and Coorg. The region offers scope for a veritable golden triangle for tourists. The Karnataka Government needs to take a cue from the Golden Quadrilateral project. Though the much-exposed Kumarakom near Kochi or Thiruvananthapuram have each carved a niche in the hearts of holiday makers, Kannur in north Kerala is fast becoming a magnet to explore the quaint art and culture of the Malabar region.

As yet untouched by the raging tourism, which has begun to have its fraying influence in the popular central and southern parts of Kerala, Kannur holds out great promise for the discerning traveller. The city is the cradle of Theyyam, a colourful ritual dance that is one of the oldest folk art forms in India. Kannur can be a base for exploring north Kerala, which abounds in calm beach spots, enticing forests ideal for trekking, and spiritual precincts for the devout.


A Theyyam performance

We were in Kannur to check out a new resort, Kairali Heritage affiliated to RCI (Resort Condominium International). Apart from the rich heritage and romantic beaches, the Malabar region has a distinct folklore and cuisine, with biryani being a major attraction.

We went on an unscheduled night-time ride in a boathouse owned by the Kairali Heritage Resort; a truly enriching experience. The resort is located in idyllic surroundings close to a river and its 24 rooms designed in typical Kerala style, with sloping roofs. Close by is an interesting temple-cum-reptile sanctuary, Parassinikadavu. Apart from devotees, the snake park attracts nature enthusiasts with its 150 reptile species.

The resort houses the famous Muthappan temple, which is the only shrine in Kerala where a Theyyam performance is a daily ritual offering.

About 7 km from Kannur is a beautiful fishing harbour that's bound to attract tourists. The Payyambalam beach is another popular picnic spot among the locals that can be developed into a tourist resort.

"We plan to chalk out daily packages to places of interest that are between five and 70 km from Kairali," says a Kairali spokesperson. Kerala Tourism plans to improve infrastructure facilities in the Paithalmala forest and Muzhappilangad beach, which are the two major tourist spots in Kannur district, says a local resident. For the travel buff, a week's holiday in Kannur can seem too little. For, after draining the adrenalin on the beaches and in the forests, Kannur itself offers a rich fare.

The St. Angelos Fort, redolent of Portuguese architecture, in Kannur Cantonment and the Thalassery fort are an interesting contrast to the busy streets of Kannur. Despite the region's rich tourist haul, connectivity remains an issue. The nearest airport is Kozhikode (110 km) or Mangalore (132 km). The only train connecting Bangalore to Kannur takes 24 hours to arrive. So, that leaves one with no option other than the treacherous road with potholes, narrow stretches and no signages to write home about.

Pictures by K.K. Mustafah

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