The Hindu Business Line : Always young

According to legend, when God created the earth, he gave it ten measures of beauty. Nine to Jerusalem and one spread throughout the rest of the world,

A lofty claim, but one which the city feels it can back up even today, packing 3,000 years of history... and still remaining young. Jerusalem is something between an open-air museum and a vibrant, modern city where one can stroll along 2,000-year-old pavements or on lively pedestrian malls.

Surrounded by a landscape of undulating hills and forests, this city is complimented by a distinct form of architecture that derives from various construction styles, representing many cultures and periods, but uniformly executed in the locally-quarried Jerusalem stone.

The city's unique character is visible in several things — from the golden aura of the setting sun reflected from every building, to the black-clad men with side curls hurrying to the synagogue; or the mingling sounds of tolling church bells and the muezzin calling the faithful to prayer, and the bustle of locals going about their daily chores.

Centre of religious importance

Jerusalem is the ultimate pilgrimage centre. In Biblical times, Jews fulfilled the injunction to make offerings at the Temple on three feast days, and it was the Passover Pilgrimage that brought Jesus here. Legend has it that Prophet Mohammed's night ride to heaven to receive the Koran started from the Temple Mount.

The three monotheistic religions are thus interwoven in the city's fabric. Jews make pilgrimage to the Western Wall of the Temple Mount and the old treasures of the Jewish Quarter, Muslims to the glorious mosques on top of Mount Moriah, and Christians to the churches built upon the sites where Jesus walked.

A tour of past wonders and periods can begin on the Mount of Olives, a site that affords a stunning view of the Old City, and hence was chosen by generations of painters to immortalise the city. A short ride takes one to the Old City, which is entered through the Dung Gate, one of the city's seven gates. Stepping into 2,000 years of history, one can visit the Western Wall, the most important Jewish historical site and the sole remnant of the Second Temple destroyed by the Romans.

Move on to the Temple Mount, to the Dome of the Rock, and the silver-domed El-Aksa Mosque; walk the Via Dolorosa up to the holiest Christian site — the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. And then explore the Old City alleys, a picturesque and colourful marketplace that displays a wealth of ornamental objects.

Walk through some special neighbourhoods and absorb their character. Try Yemin Moshe, across the valley from the Old City, with exclusive homes and art galleries, or the Turkish-era buildings of the Khan Theatre and the German and Italian colonies, to Mea Shearim where religious Jews have created the ambience of an East European town. Or to the Knesset and the magnificent Supreme Court building via the Wohl Rose Garden, and along the Haas Promenade for a panoramic view of the Old City.

The city displays its artefacts of the past and modern-day treasures in various and sundry ways, from archaeological parks to outdoor sculptures by renowned artists, ranging from Alexander Calder's "stabile" to Marc Chagall's tapestries at the Knesset and his famous stained-glass windows at the Hadassah Medical Centre.

An absolute must for a tourist is to view the precious Dead Sea Scrolls in the Shrine of the Book. Arguably among the world's most valuable documents, the scrolls tell the story of the valiant defence of Masada. At Yad Vashem, one can relive the tragedy of the Holocaust. And see the rich collections ranging from Judaica to modern paintings and sculpture at the world-famous Israel Museum, which also has a superb archaeology pavilion. Also noteworthy are the Museum of Islamic Art and the Rockefeller Museum.

Away from the time tunnel

Jerusalem is not just a journey through the time tunnel. It has all the attributes of a modern city with a bit of buzz and a bit of flair. The largest shopping mall in West Asia, and its adjacent ancient, renovated pedestrian city alleys, offer relaxed open-air mall comfort. Especially, the Nachlaot quarter at the Ben Yehuda Street, which invites one to stroll and window-shop through a rich variety of art and crafts shops, fashion boutiques and stylish sidewalk cafes. The Old City market or the Mahane Yehuda market beckon with exotic fragrances, the droll calls of vendors and the brilliant colour of their wares that capture the smells and flavours of the city.

Shopping and dining tastes are rather well catered to in local restaurants and among the stalls of the Mahaneh Yehuda Market, the Old City Bazaar or the ancient Cardo, where the excavated Byzantine street and shops have resumed their age-old role.

One has to just take a quick visual inventory of the varieties of attire on the street to gauge the city's pluralism. There are teenagers in the universal uniform of T-shirts and jeans swinging past the cassocks and habits of religious orders. There are also head coverings and long sleeves on Jewish and Muslim women alike, and also casually dressed café-loungers, and men in traditional black coats and hats depicting their sects. Such contrasts are seen throughout the city; from Christmas choirs to rock concerts, to shopping in open-air bazaars or air-conditioned malls... everything fits into the overall mosaic of the city.

Fact file

How to get there: Jerusalem is a 30-minute drive from Tel Aviv, Israel's main aerial gateway.

Where to stay: The city has accommodation to suit all budgets.

What to eat: There is a wide variety of cuisine available including Indian and Arab, apart from the traditional Israeli food.

When to visit: Summer months are hot, but the city is a year-round destination.

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