The Hindu Business Line : Magic mountain with giant smiles

Khmer King Jayavarman VII is credited with the construction of the fortified city of Angkor Thom, which he embellished with a magnificent temple right at its centre, The Bayon.

Though in ruins, the visitor is struck with awe at the sheer size and beauty of the temple built around 1200 A.D. What is outstanding is the smiling gargantuan face of Avalokitesvara, an avatar of Lord Buddha.

It was Jayavarman VII who switched worship from Hindu gods to Lord Buddha when his country could not be saved from invaders across the border. He took shelter under Buddhism and hoped his, as well as the fortunes of his Khmer kingdom, would change for the better.

The Bayon, a temple-mountain, is yet to see conservation efforts like the main Angkor Wat temple. At some temples like the Ta Prohm, trees have entwined the temple structure in their deathly embrace.

Angkor Thom must have been a large-sized, planned city as Jayavarman VII wanted to have a capital city worthy of his name. It was fortified and extended to about 10 sq km in area.

Entrance to the city is through five ornamental gates topped by the serene faces of Avalokitesvara. The temple has 54 towers and more than 200 giant smiling faces of Avalokitesvara.

One school of experts believes these faces are that of King Jayavarman himself. Invaders were confronted by these ubiquitous giant faces staring and smiling icily wherever they looked. It was believed that invaders would not dare to attack the city, which was heavily guarded.

The Bayon is also known for its 1,200-metre long bas-relief, which incorporates more than 11,000 figures. The first level has numerous figures depicting ordinary Khmer life in the 12th century.

Scenes of the marketplace, wrestlers engaged in fight, and family life are depicted. One scene shows Khmer soldiers marching with their arms ready to engage the enemy.

Those familiar with Hindu mythology will have no problem identifying the huge sculpture that shows devas pulling the trunk of the seven-headed monster naga during the samudramanthana.

Jayavarman VII finds pride of place in one of the bas-relief. However, what stands out is the bas-relief of apsaras in various poses and smiling bewitchingly. Some of them are shown dancing gracefully on a lotus. Located on the trade route between India and China, the ancient Khmer kingdom during 5-13th century A.D. was influenced by Indian religious and cultural traditions.

The Bayon impresses visitors with its symmetrical structures providing a feast for the eyes, despite the ravages of time. At present, Lord Buddha is worshipped at one of the small temples inside, though the original idol is missing.

The Khmers made sure the structures would stand for centuries by using stones and bricks, which were reserved for the gods. Human habitations, on the other hand, were made of wood, which could not last longer. This is why no remains of human dwellings were uncovered during excavation work at the site.

Pictures by the author

Fact file

How to get there: By air from Bangkok to Siem Reap, which is the gateway to Angkorian temples..

Where to stay: Siem Reap is a boomtown with lodges and hotels suiting various budgets.

When to visit: November to April.

How to get around: Taxi and auto rickshaws. Some of the drivers act as guides too.

Food: Mostly non-vegetarian in Siem Reap. There are one or two Indian restaurants in the town. Only soft drinks, a few snack items and tender coconut are available in the temple area.

Travel tips:

* Entrance fee to the temple complex is available in the form of a one-day pass, three-day pass and even a one-week pass.

* Carry walking shoes, cap/hat, sunglasses, and bottled water.

* Do not stray from well-walked paths, as the danger of unexploded artillery is real. There are snakes, too, in the ruins and vegetation.

* Visa: On arrival at the airport.

Picture by the author

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