The Hindu Business Line : A gourmet's odyssey

Sahib Sindh Sultan — a plush Pullman coach style dining car, with leather upholstery, woodwork and frosted glass partitions — sets the mood for the railway experience in fine dining.

Why would a restaurant be called Sahib Sindh Sultan? If you freak out on railway facts, your first guess would be right on.

Just read through these facts in the gold-embossed maroon raw silk bound menu as an appetiser: "On April 16, 1853, amidst the deafening roar of a 21-gun salute, a train with 14 carriages and 400 passengers steamed out of Bombay's Bori Bunder Station bound for Thane. The 21-mile journey took an hour and 15 minutes... The three historic locomotives that hauled the train on its maiden journey — the first in Asia — were 2-4-0 tender engines named Sahib, Sindh and Sultan, built by the famous Vulcan Foundry for the Great Indian Peninsular in 1852."

Inspired by history, P.B. Nichani, one of Bangalore's leading restaurateurs, decided to take a walk down memory lane. The outcome: A plush Pullman coach style dining car, done in leather upholstery, impeccable woodwork and frosted glass partitions, sets the mood for the railway experience in fine dining.

Its telling details include overhead hat-racks with bowlers, ladies' hats and an empty wicker basket, announcements over the public address system and sounds of chugging, amidst brocaded wall panels and windows that open on to a second, lower-level space in this 120-cover restaurant.

The `platform' area below, perfect for corporate diners, gains through large mirrors at either end to enhance its space visually, down to tracks at the sides under a `starlit' sky, and a carpet simulating cobblestones. A ticket window and a tiny dining room enhance the semblance of bygone railway glory.

Taking its cue from the culinary wonders of old India and the Raj, the menu is memorable. Three welcome drinks prove this beyond doubt. A traditional thandai of crushed almonds and saffron in milk. A charcoal-grilled pineapple panna flavoured with sugar and jeera. And a delectable sandalwood and saffron sherbat with a bouquet of lemon.

With service staff garbed as stationmasters or ticket checkers, we plunge into the dining experience, dazzled by the rail raj inspired dish names. Such as a pomegranate-sprinkled dahi bhalla named Tantia Tope Lajawab. A crunchy garam aloo chaat presented as Nana Sahib ki Pasand. The 21-Gun Salute section offers mouth-watering fare like the cinnamon-spiked Royal Velvet Chicken Soup and the tangy, corn-rich Jubbalpore Ka Makkai Shorba. Both delightful because of their subtle spicing. With its perfect location at The Forum mall, this is the closest fine dining location accessible to the IT or corporate crowd from Jayanagar, J.P. Nagar, Bannerghatta and Koramangala. An experience that sets diners back by an affordable Rs 700 for two, minus alcohol.

The array of starters is fairly unusual, devoid of a heavy hand with chilli and garam masala. Take Thompson's Atta Chicken, for example. Marinated overnight in subtle spices, tenderly wrapped in banana leaf, the whole is slowly tandoor-cooked within a salt dough casing that is sliced open at the table — a total treat for the senses. An aromatic dish that deserves a second visit. Just like the melting Kangra Guchchi Ki Galouti, which combines tender mushrooms and morels to perfection. The raisin-centred tikkis of minced vegetables and spinach — Subzi aur Kismis Ki Shammi — wooed the taste buds effortlessly with every bite.

Other dishes that are recommended are the tender, nawabi saffron-flavoured Kakori Kebab, the lime-enhanced, tandoor-grilled Shikari Bateer or Japanese quail, a delicate Shikampuri Kebab of minced chicken, a textured, succulent Makai Moti Seekh. And an unforgettable Campbell's Favourite pan-fried, chilli-coated crab cutlet that did more than justice to the tender seafood.

The main courses proved as Raj-centric and fine-tuned. Teamed with pudina parathas, hearty Bran Roti and Cornmeal Roti, they were rounded out by the robust flavour of the Anglo-Indian derived Railway Mutton Curry that evoked long-buried journeys.

Different directions were enhanced by Mangal Pandey Ki Pasand (richly spiced Punjabi style chole), Rai Wali Bhindi (tender bhindi in a delicate mustard gravy), and Rajputana Laal Maas (cubed mutton in a rich curry). And a surprise — Khubani ka Kofta, its apricots and paneer simmered in a velvety, fragrant gravy.

Four other dishes proved outright palate-prize winners. Such as Nichani's unique creation of Pista, Kaju aur Badam, the dry fruits curried delicately to create a brilliant eating experience. As did Havelock's Fish Masallam, superb whole bekti redolent of red chilli and coriander, tomato and methi. Just as fine was Chukchuk Crab Bhurji, soft-shelled crabs scrambled just so with curry leaves and onions.

The spread had more to offer even at this point of no return in our eating odyssey. Such as Aloo aur Wadi ki Tehri, its pepper-rich Amritsari wadi teamed splendidly with basmati rice. And a fragrant Kachche Gosht ki Biriyani.

Sahib Sindh Sultan proved its commitment to authentic Indian cuisine even through to its dessert selection. Its highlights included rich Tilley Wali Kulfi of figs, topped with a tangy cherry sauce, an outsized gulab jamun flambeed with brandy, and an unforgettable rabdi teeming with slivered lychees. Each a dessert to die for.

If the railway experience, subtly recreated, turns you on, this restaurant offers the right ticket to fine dining. For as Babita Jayaram, BJN Hotel's Vice-President (Marketing), notes, "Nichani aimed to recreate an era through its lifestyle and food at an extremely affordable price. It tends to be a favourite with corporate diners and western visitors."

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